Potentially stupid question… The assembly instructions show that you need to connect the switch and the volume knobs to the PCB with wires, which aren’t supplied with the kit. I went out and bought some wire along with other bits and pieces I needed, but I’m not really an expert on this kind of stuff so just grabbed a length of likely-looking wire. Turns out it’s a bit heavy-duty and I can’t fit the wire core through the through-holes to solder it into place. What sort of wire should I be looking for?
Oh, and I’m happy to report that apart from that, assembly seems to have gone well - I put a little temporary bridge across the points for the switch and tested all the voltages and everything’s looking good, so once I can get this stuff wired in we should have another Shruti-1 born and ready to become part of the family
Same boat here. I hooked the pots up with some old stranded 18 or 20 gauge wire that I stole from left over guitar pick-ups. I went over the top soldering the pots and ended up with some distortion in the output. I always want to secure the connection and end up putting solder everywhere. I had some other issues that contributed to the noise that have been fixed but to rule out the pots I also jumped the connections for operating purposes.
Now that my case design is being realized I went and got 3 feet of thermostat wire from the hardware store. It has three different colored solid core wires inside that I can splice off whenever needed.
In the instructions, I was a little perplexed by the drawing that showed the wiring of the pots. It would seem that the output knob would end up with a different orientation than the input if both were laid out flat next to each other, i.e. upside down. So I may have wired that pot backwards. I’m just getting ready to put the pots back in and extend the power switch so I’m excited to hear more feedback on this subject as well.
I’m not an expert in this field, in fact I’m quite the noob, but here’s my experience so far: i’ve used some stranded wire (think it was gauge 20 or maybe a little bit thinner) to connect the pots and so far it’s working fine! Afaik using solid core wire is usually better, because the internal resistance of the wire is a lot less. But solid core is not as flexible as stranded wire, and it can break if it’s been continuously bent. I didn’t notice any distortion of any kind… I’m not even sure that could be the wire… but as I said, I’m really not an expert.
i took the stranded wire from a 9V battery clip that had 2x half a meter of it. i don’t know the diameter and am not used to gauge. but stranded wire’s always recommended for connections between pcb and potcs etc. because solid wire is very likely to break (especially at the solder joints).
yeah the gauge thing is kind of a weird way of measuring wire… being european I usually think in mm, conversion is easy though, just look at this tables: http://www.landofodds.com/store/convert.htm
Depending on how far the distance is between your pots and your board, and where the wires run, you may be best off using shielded wire, with the shield connected to gnd, to limit interference… Grounding the body of the potentiometer is sometimes helpful as well. I’ve noticed my pot picking up a bit of noise from the LCD or something it’s sitting next to…
Enclosure is just about ready. Thermostat wire sucks. Ended up using 22 gauge stranded. It’s a bit thin for my liking. It’s about the same thickness of the LCD connector wires.
I don’t have any distortion from the pots but it seems that they are always on and the volume change is only noticeable between 2 and 5 o’clock; It gets a little bit louder but not too much. Pretty flat between 7 and noon. Hmm…