Through-hole Midipal

Here is my version of Midipal PCB, adapted for DIP (except regulator) components and chineese 8x1 LCD.
The tracing is a little bit rough but it works =)




nice

any chance to get a pcb from you?

i would even get into the whole diy micro flashing for this and buy a programmer.

eagle pcb

Anybody would be interested in through-hole MIDIpal kits?

Probably. I just ordered a SMT kit to be assembled by a buddy who has more skills (and a heat station), but the midipal is awesome enough that I might need another :smiley:

Nice! Still, I’ll get an SMT kit or something pre-assembled :smiley: Moar compact(er) and comes with a nice case. Or something.

Cool! So i dont have to do it… :wink:

What about the missing ADs for the 28Pin DIP package, did you change the Firmware?

I’m using original firmware, but in this case i need to modify it because encoder pins is swapped. (In attached board layout everything is ok)

@pichenettes:

i would be definitely interested in through-hole kits.

im no confident enought with my soldering to try the smt one, but like diy more than pre assembled.

it would be really nice, if someone did pcbs or whole kits of the through-hole version.
but i guess, smt kit and prebuild won`t leave much space for a 3nd version.

(and i would like you to spend your time with interesting new stuff rather than sorting parts for kits)

@schrab: thanks for the eagle file.

i din`t ever etch my own pcb. but i guess the day will come :slight_smile:

I’m not really good in soldering but at work, since one week now, i’m soldering plenty of surface component with a regular iron tool, and now i think it’s quicker and easier than throught holes ones! Will post a vidéo to demonstrate it.

I made it because it’s very hard to make double-sided pcb such size at home (i’ve understood it after making shruthi digital board) and because i have only dip version of atmega328 =)
If we talk about kit or premade pcb - smt is the best way. Cheaper components, smaller size, faster soldering.
I’m planing to finish the job with optimizing this pcb - shrink it’s size, reduce the number of bridges, add ISP connector (but i think it is not necessary because of socked mounted MCU)
Another problem that i encountered is the LCD’s available at ebay - most of them have negative contrast voltage, so pay attention. Otherwise you have to make voltage invertor (LMC7660 is the best and simple solution) or put up with low contrast, than is not an option.

I would like to tell all of you - don’t be afraid of surface mounting. It’s easier than you think, look at this video.
But desoldering without hot blower is a real nightmare.

Here’s my first experience with surface component soldering:

video

Friends, i need help. I can’t get avr toolchain to work on windows, so would anyone recompile Midipal firmware for swapped encoder lines?

When working with surface mount stuff it’s always a good idea to work away from joints you’ve already soldered. The risk of bridging pins and pads is much lower that way. In EATYone’s video you can see he’s holding the iron in his left hand and working from left to right. It’s safer to go right to left if you’re left handed, left to right if you’re right handed (presuming you hold your iron with your dominant hand). That way you’re never leaving a soldered joint under the shoulder of the iron or leaving soldered pads where you can’t see them. In his video you can see it’s not hard to work with the SMD components if you’re careful and you take your time.

Good advice thnx. But one thing u don’t see in this video is That i turn the PCB each time i solder a ‘leg’ of a component. I don’t feel to solder with my hand over the component, that’s why i’m starting from left, and finish By left too when i turn the board :slight_smile:

Encoder lines A and B swapped.

pichenettes, thank you very much

I am interested in a MIDIpal but Mutable does not have them available. If I got a board that was ready to populate I think I could solder it up myself. I want to attach the optional 8 CC’s. I guess they would require a 3.3 volt DC power source. What ampereage? I might have a 20 foot cable and have knobs on my midi guitar or maybe foot pedals or both. I want a Mutable MIDIpal kit. Does anyone know if they will be available again? If not I’ll settle for a ready to populate board I guess because I can’t find a better solution for CC’s like I have described. ANy thoughts?

The MIDIpal has an onboard voltage regulator, so it can be powered by anything in the 5V-10V range (higher voltages might make it too hot). It needs at most 100mA.

The kits are sold out ; and there’s currently a shortage of 1x8 LCD modules. There will be a next batch of kits when the LCD modules are available again, probably in january.