So I tore my shruti back down again. Played around with it a little bit and just now am reporting back.
Generally it should be noted that my design tested out fairly close tolerances pretty much everywhere.
LCD screen: I haven’t been able to verify but by from my end it seems like a 2mm shift to the right of the two left-hand mounting screws would be correct. I still don’t know the exact dimensions for the screen hole. Also I currently don’t have a working set of calipers
this should give you some idea of how much I had to remove from the hole on one side. There was a line on the right-hand side of the goddess engraving
Knobs: In my revised version the input level will be on the rear, and the output level will be centered vertically with the center of the screen. Also, I didn’t notice until later but the anti-rotation holes are not needed as they aren’t included on the pots that Olivier sourced.
Buttons: I initially recommended that the button height was wrong and should extend downward. I believe after looking at it again that it IS centered properly. If you mount your board parallel to the front faceplate (using at least one spacer) the holes will be properly centered. However, using home-brew buttons from my design, I needed to make up some of that space between the top of the tact switch and the front panel. Because I tilted the bottom of the faceplate in, it decentered the buttons from their intended location. A nice solution might be larger 2-layer buttons with a square cut out of the lower piece to fit over the button stem…
This photo shows it well. Notice how the buttons are below the surface if the board is perfectly parallel.
Here’s a closer look at what I did with the buttons & epoxy.
LEDs: My holes are large enough for the tops of the LEDs, not the bottom. If you’ve already installed your LEDs at a certain height they may not allow the board to seat where it should. Dremel/drill or re-soldering…
Main PCB: The spacers did not turn out to be the right height. With the bamboo it was very easy to just clip them down with a diagonal cutters… Other materials may not work. I’d say it was 2mm or so too tall; you could redesign.
a closer look at the rear
Mounting faceplate: My idea currently is to cut a rectangle out of the sides, roughly on axis with the knobs, parallel and contiguous to the front panel. A fitted piece would go in that slot with a screw hole and matching hole in the top. It’s 2 more screws in the top faceplate and a little more gluing, but I believe it would work well.
I hope this answers some questions. This is a lot of work!