Hey everyone, I’m really interested in building an Ambika. I have some soldering/electronics experience but it is fairly basic, so I will be relying on the help of a couple of friends and (hopefully) my ability to learn quickly. I am not too worried about the assembly, but I did have some questions about parts sourcing.
I want to build an Ambika with 6 SMR4 filter cards. Is the following all I need?:
-Mobo + Microcontroller
-6 x SMR4 + Microcontrollers
-Mobo components as per the official BOM (minus the PCB and Microcontroller)
-3 Additional DIP16 Sockets
-6 x SMR4 components as per the official BOM (minus the PCB and Microcontrollers)
-9V AC 1A PSU
-Mechanical Parts as per the official BOM
Also, does anybody know if the Ambika Plexiglass case sold in the store includes the internal mechanical parts? I assume it does not, but the wording is a little bit tricky.
Thanks, and I look forward to being a part of the MI community!
Also, one more question: I notice that the BOM for the mobo calls for a 100k pot. Am I correct in assuming that this is for the level of the output? Also, will I have to modify the plexiglass case to make a hole for it?
Case comes with all Nuts + Bolts.
I highly recommend not to start with Ambika as your first project, better build something smaller first, like a Shruthi. Not that the Ambika is more complicated - its just 10 times the size……
I am pretty confident I can do OK with the assembly. I am in no rush and have the support of a couple of people.
Just to clarify, these nuts and bolts include everything to attach the mobo + 6 voice cards? As in the case includes all the parts listed here?: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Ai4xPbRS5YZjdHl4MG1PWkxONzg2ZFdRYXJrMzZvTWc&single=true&gid=4&output=html
+1 for what fcd72 said.
if you got friends who are good at soldering/debugging you are probably fine.
about the 100kA Pot: yes it is the volume pot and there is already a hole in the case for that.
Thanks for the advice I think I have figured out all of the component sourcing. I will double-check with a clear head tomorrow and place my orders.
The nuts & bolts are those for assembling the exterior of the case ; but the heavy bag of spacers/nuts/screws for the interior is not provided.
Thank-you, that clears that up!
Also, when you read the assembly instructions of the motherboard… it says: 1x 10k (brown, black, black, red) or lower (down to 4.7k). If you want to use 6 voices you have to order something else then the 10k of the motherboard bom.
And you also have to order the spacers yourself:
Why do you order the 3 Additional DIP16 Sockets? For the IC’s that aren’t socketed in the instructions?
“Some logic ICs on the top of the board are not socketed. Solder the 2x 74hc595 (shift registers for the LEDs) ; and 1x 74hc165 (shift register for reading the 8 switches).”
If so: good choice.
You always should have sockets at home - just like salt, oil, flour, sugar, gravity……
Hey Eurynom3, thanks for the advice. I noticed that point about the 10k resistor in the instructions and ordered a 4.7k and a 6.8k just to be sure. I’m not sure which one to install with 6 SMR4 voicecards: 4.7k or 6.8k?
I ordered the spacers from Digikey (I’m in Canada so Reichelt is not available). They cost me $50 But this way I was able to get all of the parts from only Mouser and Digikey, which reduced shipping/duty for me.
And yes the additional DIP16 sockets are for the 3 unsocketed shift registers. As I’m not too experienced thought I would rather not take any chances.
50 $ as in fitfy dollars??? for standoffs? maybe they consider standoffs the very latest freakiness over there. why is that so expensive? i also noticed (don’t know if it’s still today) that you pay up to 7-8$ for 100 1% metal film resistors at mouser’s delicatessen
Read it and weep: http://www.digikey.ca/short/9jpf0
I think that’s why most people avoid getting the mechanical parts from Digikey, but we’re limited on choices here in North America.
Exactly that I post about today…the standoffs/spacers total around 50 dollares in mousers, digikey and farnell. Just go cheaper if you buy from Reichelt. Also saw on ebay golden ones that can go much cheaper if it’s one’s taste.
I think there is a cool opportunity for someone to buy it bulk and sell around.
"4.7k or 6.8k?"
Since I wanted to avoid possible distortion and desoldering, I’m using 6.8k and it works perfectly. As I understand, the 4.7k is just quieter.
@silviu: I will use 4.7 k. But just like you, i am a beginner - so i don’t know the difference between using 4.7 and 6.8k
This is my second DIY project. I also ordered more parts than the BOM presecribes. Because when you make an fault, you don’t have to wait for the order again (and pay again for the shipping costs).
“the 4.7k is just quieter.” what do you mean with that? That the output is more quiet?
OK, I will try a 6.8k and if it still distorts then I will switch it out for a 4.7k.
I stupidly ordered nylon screws instead of metal for the 6mm M3 screws for mechanical assembly. (http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=29341K-ND&x=7&y=15&formaction=on) Will I be able to use these nylon screws or should I re-order some aluminium ones?