[Solved] Built me a programmer but it's totally not working

Today I built the programmer with a friend of mine. Unfortunately it doesn’t work at all, I’ll explain the details below
We did everything according to the instructions… some things were not 100% clear but I still think I got most of it right.
The PCB was indeed a bit tricky and at one point a solder pad went off, but it was one of the not connected legs of the IC (at least as far as I could tell).

The rest went smooth.

Now when I plugged it in, twisting the knobs would not change anything, only when turning OSC1 range (I think it was that one) all the 4 parameters displayed on the screen would move at the same time, this no matter which parameters are displayed… well all of the controllable, things like the matrix would stay fixed.
Another weird behaviour is that when I booted the Shruthi it would not show the usual startscreen, but jump straight to the filter page.

I checked all the connection, checked if the ICs and connectors had the right orientation, checked voltages among pots + and GND, checked if we had connected everything like in the pictures, and it all appears to exactly like that. So either the programmer is not working with the 4-PM or we did something wrong… but then please someone tell me what it could be.

Just to be sure:
I connected the output expansion section and the CV IN on the digital board with the programmer, removed the connection between that section and the filter board, connected the J6 section (the one below the output expansion, with the programmer as in the pictures. I left the other connection between the digital board and the filter as it was. Actually I even tried to remove that one, but the shruthi would not boot.

ok… what am I missing?

I have al magnetic Screwdrivers for this… thats the reason for the Slots in the Sidepanels, the Nuts fall better trhu than with Hex Holes :wink:

You have selected programmer in the settings?

AFAIK they both use shift registers/extra experimental port, and are therefore mutually exclusive… :confused:

EDIT : Straigt from tah source (Build it! section of the main website) :
"***In addition, it is not possible to use simultaneously the 4-Pole Mission filter board and the Programmer since they will be both accessing at the same time the digital extension port.***"

@V`cent: yep but Frank told me it would work, and I think he wouldn’t have without a good reason. Though on second thought he said: “THERETICALLY it should work”. Maybe it just plain doesn’t… hmm. Let’s see what he says.

@6581punk: yes I did!

The same is true of the polivoks. You remove the 595 and insert the pin chip into the socket to wire the switches to them.

ehm, sorry for the stupid question, what do you mean by “pin chip”?

anyway, just in case here’s some pix:


" high rest version":http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4982577/forum/shruthiXT/pots.jpg

There was a connector that plugged into the IC socket. It was like a IC socket but has pins on the top.

oh… no, didn’t have one in the kit. but then I don’t have a polivoks…

I think @6851punk is talking about this:

Incidentally, I tried to solder that thin ribbon stuff to a connector the other day to make a jig that would speed up testing filterboards. The results aren’t great and although mine didn’t look as good as yours, I thought it would work and it didn’t. When I removed it and used jumpers, it was fine.

This is why I have been trying to design a way to cable the XT without soldering directly to the boards with that cable. I would prefer to crimp it and use connectors if I can. It will also allow me to swap out boards whenever I wish. The only board that will have permanent modifications will be the digital control board, but even then only the male headers will be changed out. I plan to use extra long ones that will permit a connector at the top and the bottom. That should not prevent the controller from being used in a regular Shruthi case like any of the others. I think I’m also going to socket the LCD too BTW.

Maybe I’m wasting my time, but that’s my objective.

At any rate, I think you should test without that soldered header connector to the XT board. I don’t trust them.

Maybe I’m an idiot but why are you wiring to the control board twice? Both from the bottom of the board soldered directly and from the top with the header connector?

thanks for the picture!

not sure I completely understood your question, but if you are referring to the two rainbow cables coming from the programmer PCB, one gets connected to the filter board, the other one to the digital control board. apparently this is a workaround for getting the 4-PM to work with the programmer. The connection between the control board and the filter has also been removed, so the programmer functions as a bridge between the two.
I had to take my shruthi back out from the programmer because I need it tomorrow for rehearsals so I can’t take a picture, but here’s Frank pic with explanation:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fcd72/7159334326/in/photostream

Okay. I figured there was something I didn’t understand…

Thanks for explaining that.

Eeep. I don’t have the resistors on my socket. Have I wired it wrong? I have it so that the centre terminal of the switch is connected to the control signal (overdrive, fm etc). and the other two terminals are 5v and 0v.

This is 4053 input pull-down resistors. Optional.
Or not pull-down?

Question for you XT people:

When connecting more than one filter board, do you always split the F/Q signal from the controller board so that one filter gets F/Q and the other gets CV1-Out/CV2-Out? Or does that only apply for certain filter combinations?

Yups.
This is to prevent doing things like these:

Its me trying to track down a suspiciously faulty SMR-4 Filter Switch Backstage whilst a SoundCheck - turned out that the proud owner altered the Systems Setting…

Unrelated Side Note: for this i myself award the “Soldering Hero Of The Week” to myself for disassembling and reassembling a Shruhti XT whilst an slightly overdimnesioned Line Array capable of delivering for a whole Stadium, stuffed into a 600m^2 Club shakes literally everything. Hard to solder when the Board vibrates like in LA 1857…

@ Titus
The F and Q signals are different for the polivoks and the SMR4 board.
So if polivoks is selected the F and Q signals are polivoks signals and the
SMR4 should be on CV out 1 and 2.

@ Rumpelfilter & V’ cent,
I’ve got my programmer board 595 and polivoks 595 in serial and it works fine!
Just make sure the programmer 595 is the first.
So Q7 digital board to serial in 595 programmer board.
Serial out 595 programmer board to serial in 595 filter board.
Both boards the same clk, en, 5V and gnd.