Shruthi problems removing ic socket

Hi all! another noob problem i’m afraid, this is my second build in the last 2 weeks (hadn’t soldered since I was a kid before the first).
I built an MB Groovesizer no problems so thought i’d be fine with the Shruthi.
Filter board is all done no problem, however on the main board I made a stupid mistake and put a 14 pin ic socket in where it should have been 16. I hadn’t soldered all the pins when I saw my mistake so I clipped the pins and removed most of them, there are 2 that I cannot get clear, i’ve tried braid, solder sucker, extra flux, heating up a needle to push through, i’m starting to damage the board by the looks of things and i’m pretty stuck with where to go from here.
Help please…

pics of both sides of the board here

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Imgur

thanks

----edit— since I messed up somehow, and half the text was missing…Sorry…-------
Add more solder :slight_smile:
Yeah, it seems counter-intuitive, but it allows for an even heat transfer, thereby melting all of the solder, which you can’t at the moment.

It may not always be ideal but in those situations you can always put the 16 in and just solder some clipped resistor legs from the two unsocketed IC pins through the holes and you’ll have all the connections you need. And just some sharp pliers to clip the extra sockets off your 16 pin socket to fit the 14 pin spot.

Next time just leave the 14 in and add a cut piece with 2 sockets to turn it into a sixteen.
I think weniverse is right. I think you should try to get your ic in in whatever way it will make connection. That’s more important than getting the holes cleared.
Be sure to check with your multimeter if all pads still make connection. If not you can always fix it with a jumper wire.

yeah once i’d got myself in a mess it did occur to me that I could have just added 2 sockets, yuou live and learn.
i’ve tried adding more solder but no joy, i’ve ordered the fancy solder sucker mentioned in another thread on here and some fancy pliers, hopefully these’ll help.
With the multimeter I should be testing between the pad and what for a connection?

given that the holes are blocked what would be the best way to make the connection at this point?
could I get away with just soldering some clipped resistor legs to the pads and then to the IC?

Just follow the trace on the PCB and measure from one soldering-pad to the next. Very little to no resistance there means you’re still fine :wink: Otherwise just use a wire. Clipped resistor legs will be good, too.

I’ve been to that point, too, when solder got stuck in a hole on the PCB and I couldn’t remove it with flux. I found using a hand-drill with a 0,6mm tip is a nice solution, then. Just be careful - you just want to remove the tin from the hole. Use a sharp, quality drill and be very gentle. So far this always worked for me. No messed up pads, no broken vias. I’m not sure if anybody else does this, though. So it might not be the most elegant way …?


(this is a very bad, very grainy picture - but you’ll get the idea of what tool i’m talking about?)

thanks this was something I considered as well but wasn’t sure if it was a good idea or not

A needle might help, heat one side with the iron and push the needle through the hole from the other side.

I tried heating a needle couldnt get it through the board

Fortunately i own soldering tips in pencil style with 0.4mm tip diameter. Heating and sucking it off with a pump - problem solved…

>I tried heating a needle couldnt get it through the board

Heat the pad, press the needle into the hole :slight_smile:

i’ll try the needle thing again thanks, waiting on a small hand drill and a decent solder sucker.
I’ll get there one way or another, thanks for all the advice!

And if there’s not enough solder in the hole to make all of the stuck solder bits melt, you are not going to be able to push the needle trough, it will feel sticky. At that point you can either reflow the joint while adding solder (making it a normal joint), or try drilling it out. I know what method I prefer… Although you could in theory come upon a situation where you will need to drill the hole, I have yet to experience that particular displeasure…

Drilling risks ripping the pad off the board.

i have a reaming bit its 0.8mm

its for cleaning solder out of the desoldering gun when pins get stuck

give me your address and ill send it you you put the reamer in the hole add extra solder and push the reamer through while still turning it while the solder sets now use wick to remove the extra solder and just remove the reamer while turning it it cleans the hole

thanks jhulk i’ll pm you. Could I solder a bit of wire to the pad and then directly to the ic leg to avoid damaging the board anymore?

if you cant remove it but have holes in all the others cut the small part off the small leg on the turned pin socket

and just smd type solder it

if you are unsure just email me where do you live

i would recommend a place then solder holder this allows you to put all the parts in first so you can check them all then you place a antistatic pad on it and the frame clamped the pcb to it then it flips over and shows all the solder pads all the parts are held into place by the antistatic pad

so I got my new solder sucker and got one of the pins out then used the tiny drill to clear the holes.
Just finished the build and powered up, seems like everything is working fine.
Many thanks everybody! :slight_smile: