Shruthi-1 parts and OLEDs

Hi,
I’m currently building 4 Shruthi-1’s (4-Pole, LP2+Delay, Digital/FX & Polivoks). I have a cart at Reichelt and a cart at Mousers. I can get most of the needed parts, but I’m still missing some parts. Can I get them at Mousers/Reichelt or alternative anywhere cheap in Germany? If not, where is the cheapest way to get them.

All Filter Boards (4x)
8x Optional volume/input gain pot 10k
8x Female header 1x8

All Controller Boards (4x)
24x Caps
16x Linear pot

LP2+Delay Filter Board
1x V2164 quad VCA
1x PT2399 digital delay

4-Pole Mission Filter Board
1x SSM2164 quad VCA
2x LED

Digital/FX Filter Board

Polivoks Filter Board


I also want to know, if I can use this four OLED displays. Do I need to pay attention to anything (Resistors, etc)? And is a OLED well worth the extra cost? I never saw a OLED, but I know, that it isn’t needing/using any background lighting.

Displays:
http://de.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NHD-0216KZW-AY5virtualkey66010000virtualkey763-NHD-0216KZW-AY5
http://de.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NHD-0216KZW-AG5virtualkey66010000virtualkey763-NHD-0216KZW-AG5


http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINSTAR-WEH001602RBPP5N00000-16x2-OLED-Red-on-Black-LCD-Display-Module-572318-/120984411646

Thanks!

All boards at the same time! Dont overfeed the addiction or you’ll find yourself with 40 Shruthi’s in no time.

you can get the V2164’s & PT2399 at mammothelectronics or smallbear (SSM2164 & V2164 are identical chips).

As for the remaining parts, I get everything Shruthi from Mouser. The LED’s don’t matter. Just need to play with resistor values if you get something bright like white or blue. Make sure they are 3mm LED’s though.

All of those OLED’s will work. Newhavens are a pretty safe buy. One thing to note is you will not need the trimmer or the Resistor for those.

I have the Newhaven OLEDs in a 4 pole and a Polivoks. The doo look fantastic. They are also low profile, so you can have a case which has a clear window for the display, rather than the standard hole cut in the top panel. It looks really nice. You don’t need resistors, just bridge them.

@supercollider, the OLED’s don’t use the last 2 pins so it’s not necessary to put a bridge at the resistor.

Thanks for your answers :slight_smile:

I just looked at the shipping costs of mammothelectronics and they are to high. 36 dollar for shipping to Germany o0
Anyway I found the PT2399 for 1.3€ in a German online store. But I still can’t find a cheap SSM2164/V2164. It seems like the cheapest way to get them is via Ebay from Hong Kong. Then one would cost 12€…

And has anyone an idea what parts I can order from Mouser/Reichelt for the:
8x Optional volume/input gain pot 10k
8x Female header 1x8
24x Caps
16x Linear pot

@qp Yeah, I’m a bit addicted :smiley:

Be extremely catious with SSM’s from Hong Kong. They more than likely will be fakes. Try small bear Also, there was a EU group buy here for 2164’s not to long ago. maybe someone has a stock that could help you out. I think Rosch was the initiator.

Also, I’m on my phone so it makes it a pain to do multiple tab searches, but for the 1x8, I buy a large header, 16 or more and just trim off what I need. Much cheaper and easier than trying to find the exact size. For the optional 10k, any 10kA panel mount will work. Alps are good. Make sure is small. You can get the mouser part number from either the Ambika or Anushri BOM. They use the same caps and pots.

Thanks :slight_smile:

So can I use this as volume pot: 688-RK09D113F25C0A
http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RK09D113F25C0A104/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadujEstLVTsXcZo64NTPDnSxuUJkAApMGnvxFcgd375pO4g%3D%3D

And this as parameter pots: 688-RK09D1130C2P
http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RK09D1130C2P/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadujEstLVTsXcZiqwFoMN1E76tVu9SgbujSGtPhK5b0r8wA%3D%3D

I also can’t find female 1x8 or 1x16 headers at mousers/reichelt. Has anyone a part number? And do they need extra long leads?

There is a dutch store wich has the v2164’s.They have the PT2399 too.

For the extra long leads I’ve been ordering mine from:

Not sure on shipping prices to the EU though.

I’d +1 the OLED comments, I used a New Haven brand display on my Yellow Magic/Delay and it’s amazing how much clearer OLED is over the LCD. Nothing wrong with LCD though, but the OLED is nicer, and visible from a wider angle range.

I’m taking it the audio pot is for the Audio IN/OUT of the Shruthi? If so, that type of pot will only work if you plan to mount it on a PCB and not have it fixed to the panel. This would work better. It can be mounted to the case (I carefully drill a couple of holes on the front panel of the case).

Yes, that is the right 10k Pot.

Oh, you need those female Audrino Sockets. The lead length isn’t important for the Shruthi. You can just trim the one that is used between the Digital and Analog board for a better fit if they are too long. This one here looks like it’s a packet of both 6 and 8 pin.

I have this OLED screen, which is a little different from the Newhaven ones. It’s 15 pin. The data sheet is here:

It looked to me like the pins were mostly inverted from the standard setup, with the exception of pins 1 + 2, which are the same (VSS and VDD).

So the pin setup would be something like this:

1 = 1
2 = 2
3 = 14
4 thru 10 = 13 thru 7
14 not used
15 not used

I tried this with no luck and I tried some combinations of pull/up and pull/down resistors, which I figured wasn’t necessary, but still nothing.

Anyone have any advice or experience with these? I’m wondering if maybe the screen is a cheap-o Chinese dud.

The pin numbering is also reversed on this OLED. It goes from 15 to 1 (see mechanical drawing of the data sheet).