Shruthi-1 enclosure with LEDs and labels (.SVG)

Does anybody know how I can add holes to the Shruthi-1 enclosure SVG. I’m afraid of doing something wrong.

If I copy pre-existing holes (like e.g. from the poti holes) and resize them, the red outline isn’t visible. See my attached picture.

(I hope it’s okay to ask this basic question)



Ok. I found out on my own. Sorry for asking so stupid questions :smiley:

Here is my final edit. With LED holes and labels. (18.4 KB)

If somebody wants to check it. Else I order it on Monday. :slight_smile:

Here a version with the text converted to paths so isn’t complaining.

Enclosure (24.3 KB)

If you’re cutting this on laser, make sure your lineweights are the same…for many manufacturers, the lineweight represents power, and a thin line may be interpreted as an engraving pass at lower power. If your laser just interprets it as a plain path, you should be fine.

My firmware uses line color to differentiate path types, but I often have to convert files to monochrome with variable lineweights for use in other machines (can be a pain with large engravings, as not all machines can extrapolate wide etching paths from fields of color)

Sculpteo shows in their online viewer how they interpret different parts and they even let you change it.

I finally sent my SVG to Sculpteo to laser cut it. I received an email, with the warning, that the “cutting lines” are to close to each other. “The minimum distance is 3mm.”

I should reply to them if I want to proceed.

Any experiences and idea if this is a real problem?

Here is the SVG: (26.1 KB)

It looks ok to me. If you have room on the sheet, you could move the parts a bit further apart. I find that swarf that thin can create issues during the cut, which might be the “too close” issue.

No power switch? Clear case, no LED or light pipe holes?

Also, is the back plate lower on the svg, or are those tabs out of alignment? I can’t tell on my phone…

I like to line stuff up so I don’t have a heart attack if I watch the cutting…

Hope you get a good case! I modified a similar case for my Ambika build…it’s taking forever to clean the finished pcb enough to make it presentable in my clear case! Opaque from now on for me!