Programmer question - jack wiring

Apologies for the noob question - I’m building Frank’s programmer, and want to know how to wire the audio jacks. My filter board(s) have the audio jacks soldered onto them, and I’d like to leave them in place. So here’s how I have wired the 4 solder points from the existing jacks to the 6 possible solder points on the jacks supplied with the kit:

Is this correct? My concern is that I don’t think this configuration will preserve the lack of continuity between points A & B, when a jack is inserted at point C, as normally occurs when a jack is inserted at point D. Perhaps this doesn’t matter anyway?

Hey dnigrin we are in the same boat! Except I cracked this one about 1 am this morning ( before an 8am start today…ouch). About to walk home from work which will take an hour, can take a photo to illustrate then but I’ll try & explain in very basic terms because as a baby solderer myself that’s all I know.
Basically you only need two connections, there are four feet on the sockets which come with the shruthi kit, six on the ones I bought myself, but in any case you just need to connect twice - once to the tip & once to the ring of the TR (tip,ring) 1/4 inch jack. Push a jack into the socket & watch the outside of the socket. You will notice how the feet one side are connected to metal strips which are pushed up ad the jack goes in, staying in contact with it. This is the side to solder leads to, the other side the feet get disconnected as the jack goes in. On the PCB more luck than logic - I found that looking down on the PCB, at the bottom of the board (opposite side to components), with the relevant side of the board towards me, I soldered to the corresponding two pads (tip and ring ie two in a line perpendicular to the side, as if a jack was slotted into the original connector) on my left hand side. I’ll post now…

… Just in case my dodgy old phone cut out :stuck_out_tongue: … So basically just imagine the original connectors soldered onto the board & take one lead from each of the tip and the sleeve I mean (TR on the brain, I think they are called TS connectors…) & connect to corresponding feet on the connectors, ON the side that stays connected when the jack is inserted. I’m one step ahead as got sound out but pots are affecting wrong parameters - think I have scrambled connections at the ribbon-wire to control board stage (since really thought I got the pots & pin-out bit right but ummmed & aaahed a bit when connecting programmer PCB to main one). Good luck! we can swap pics when we are done. Mine’s sealed up & looks cool but i’ve got to grit my teeth & go back inside…

Ps in all this have to say big thanks to Frank aka fcd72 aka big C rep for being such friendly, patient and efficient …erm… pusher - thank you! engraving looks cool :slight_smile:

You only need to wire 2 points: GND and Signal (which goes to the tip). Its rather hopeless getting a halfway good quality mono Jack over here, thats the reason for Stereo. For GND you can wire both the green and the black wire, both are connected to GND, for Audio out its the Red one (A) in your Pic, the blue one is connected to nothing…

NB just saw about your jack sockets already being on board - that’s ok so were mine. Even though I only bought it to go in the programmer. It gets worse … MIDI… Doh!

Hi Frank & thanks again x jk

MIDI is a bit more tricky - I usually solder it to the back of the MIDI Jacks:

Hmmm my way involved much less knowledge & some fairly aggressive cable assault on “the other side”. Thanks for the info for when my version falls apart. Let’s just say if I showed you a picture you would feel sorry for the MIDI connectors that got sent to my torture chamber…

As long as it works… thats the reason the Programmer cases are opaque :wink:

huh? you solder midi jacks on board when you like to panel mount them anyway?
and btw what happened to my profile pic? have you hacked my account?

yeah, i know your password, its beergodsex and i changed it to the ultra secret 12345, The same as on my Suitcase™

Thanks bendy_john and Frank - I just didn’t know if there was some circuitry within the Shruthi that took advantage of knowing when there was no jack plugged in to the sockets, to decrease noise or something (i.e. with the audio input). Anyway thanks for the tips, looks like I can remove 2 wires per jack.

And on the MIDI connections, are those the only two connections necessary? I don’t need to connect the other 3 pins, or at least the middle pin (I thought I saw that it was listed as “shield” in many online MIDI pinout configurations I looked up).

OK, on the schematic , which of course I should have looked at first!, I see that on one of the MIDI connectors, the middle pin (2) is connected to ground? So shouldn’t at least that one be connected too?

I never connect it to anything…

I’m still trying to justify purchasing a big C… It’s difficult…

It has these Cherry Buttons. All your timing Problems will be gone. If you ask kindly Collin will sign it for you. Do you need anything more?

@fcd72 - Resisting the sequentix-related derailment attempt, sir, I wonder if you might be able to help me with a little wiring conundrum of my own?

Before posting I’ve spent a fair bit of time trying to troubleshoot myself and one thing I can confirm is that all the pots are wired up correctly as per the pin-out table, and the ribbon cable connectors are in the right ports.

As ever I will struggle to keep the post snappy, a full description will take a little while since being concise isn’t my strong point, sorry.

Cutting to the chase I think you might be able to tell me where I’ve wired the programmer board to the Shruthi wrong, I got a bit confused tying the old and V1.7 flickr photosets together. What I have done is this:

(pic of programmer board)

i.e. on the programmer board, to the “output expansion in” 10-pin header, from the nearest pin to the LED I have soldered to the sixth pin away from it, I have soldered a ribbon wire in the order red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet.

And this:

(pic of shruthi board in post below)

i.e. I have then taken the ribbon wire to Shruthi in the order:

Red – Output expansion +5V
Orange – Output expansion GND
Yellow – Output expansion Q7’
Green – Output expansion CLK
Blue – Output expansion EN

Violet – Input expansion IN1

…with the result that the four programmer ports seem to control basically the right group of parameters – with pots adjusting the parameters well with no actual sound issues at all (sounds great). However the pots are affecting the wrong parameters (but in the right groups) as follows:

Control pot on programmer → parameter being changed on Shruthi

LFO1 Attack → Rate
LFO1 Rate → Attack
LFO1 Shape → Master/Slave
LFO1 Sync → Shape
LFO2 Attack → Rate
LFO2 Rate → Master/Slave
LFO2 Sync → Shape

Env1 Attack → Release
Env1 Decay → Sustain
Env1 Sustain → Decay
Env1 Release → Attack
Env2 Attack → Release
Env2 Decay → Sustain
Env2 Sustain → Decay
Env2 Release → Attack

Osc1 Range → Parameter
Osc1 Parameter → Range
Osc1 Shape → Detune
Osc2 Detune → Shape
Osc2 Range → Parameter
Osc2 Parameter → Range
Osc2 Shape → Sub

Operator → LFO2 to VCF
Sub → Resonance
Osc Balance → Env1 to VCF
Noise → Cutoff
Env1 → Osc mix
LFO2 → Operator
Cutoff → Noise
Resonance → Subosc

I actually managed to slot one of the ribbon-wire end sockets into the port on the programmer board the wrong way round (ie. ridge on socket away from slot on port) just to see if this would fix it – but alas not – pots still controlled the wrong parameters.

Is the violet wire the culprit? Should it go to CV1 on the input expansion? Should the programmer side of the ribbon wire be soldered to the other 10-pin header, the “output expansion out”??

Any help greatly appreciated. I am sure whatever I have done wrong, if the MI community can tell me what it is, a bit of late-night tea drinking & desoldering-related curses should eventually set it right. - let’s face it, if this (below) can work (amazingly it does), then shurely I must be getting close :stuck_out_tongue:

(pic of MIDI late-night extremism, in another separate post below)

pic of shruthi connection in relation to post above

pic of “lost solder” method of MIDI connection (like lost wax sculpture, plenty of heat involved, hopefully something left at end), never caught on apparently