Power distribution board, what diameter wires?

Hi all,

I have seen a few pics where people use quite thick cables to conect the dist board to the PSU, is there a reason for this? Do I need to go out and buy some heavy duty cabling now?

Well they are the main transport for the power to all of your modules so you don’t wan’t anything in the way of that. Generally more power (in Ampere) requires a thicker wire.
Here is nice table to check how much you really need
I see that my rack doesn’t use more than 500mA on each rail according to modular grid so i could get away with AWG24 … which is thin.

It’s probably nicer to use something a bit beefier but i wouldn’t expect problems with thin wire. I you worry about it you can always feel the wire when in use. If they get warm you’ll want thicker wire!

Oh and there is no reason for the wire to be thicker than the traces on the PCB can carry anyway.

Excellent, thank you for all of your help!

You want something reasonably thick if you’re using crimp connectors.

Is there a clear benefit in using crimp connectors instead of soldering?

Not if the wires are perfectly static. But if they move around a bit then crimped connections are more reliable. Soldered connections are brittle and snap, which is why they are not used on cars. Same with mains wiring, if you need to extend mains cables it’s always crimps.

I always use them on power switches etc instead of soldering the wires to them, they’ll need replacing one day.

woops, I soldered my wires! I will however clip them down, so if they do come off the board, they wont short anything out…hopefully

If they are just in your case and you don’t pull on them every time they will be just fine.

If they are held in place with cable clips they will be fine. When you solder wires they become almost like solid core cables, which suffer metal fatigue.

These cables are not going anywhere now, I glued them on and clipped them down :slight_smile:

This is the socket I used and how I wired it, note* cable colours may differ in your country…Brown or Red is live here in the UK!

To crimp a soldered/tinned wire is not a good idea, it contradicts the idea of crimping
The reliability of a crimped connection depends strongly on the size-matching of wire and sleeve.

Thanks for letting me know Picard :slight_smile: I am a novice to electronics/wiring so all the feedback I get really helps me! Oh and well spotted! :smiley: I did indeed crimp and solder the wires

Yep, don’t use tinned wires with terminal blocks either, there’s no spring in the wire and the connections come loose. But don’t use terminal blocks anyway, you can get these maintenance free junction boxes which are much easier to use and the connections don’t come loose.

Thanks guys, i’ll remember that for the future :slight_smile:

I feel completely confused at the whole grounding thing.
I have the same socket as Adam and as I am reading topics on what to do with “protective earth” or anything like this, I just want to clarify :
The third pin of the outlet (the one represented with a green sign “Earth to chassis or frame” in a previous picture) is what we call the “ground” in general and should be connected to the “earth” on the Meanwell. Is this correct?

Now, as I have a completely wooden case, should I put a wire somewhere as extra protection? If so, where should it come from?

I tried reading topics on Muff and here and wall of texts are just melting my brain and confuse me even more. D:

Wooden or plastic cases don’t need the mains earths connecting to them.

The point of earthing a metal case is so that if the live wire comes loose and touches the case you don’t get a shock. Example: plastic light switches don’t require earth but metal ones do.

So you connect the mains earth to the pin on the Meanwell and that’s it.