Love how the Mutable Instrument stuff totally stands out in as synth setting!
btw: that soldering job you did looks good!
Your setup with the Minitaur looks great! Frank’s cases really do sparkle don’t they?
Those tweezers you found rock!
I just prepped the area where my midipal will live, cant wait to pick one up!
It was a fun build, but I honestly think I prefer through-hole projects.
I shake more than I thought I did. I actually found it easier to hold the tiny flakes of electrons with my right hand and solder with my left. Weird.
Finished MIDIpal and all works fine. Next thing in pipeline: 4-Pole Mission ;-).
You ATMega looks machine/oven soldered! Great job! How did you do it? What technique did you use?
I’m curious to know too because this looks as good as the solder job on the factory built ones.
Maybe it has something to do with the mushrooms… I’m feeling kind of psychedelic at the moment.
Fun and Fungus.
The power of the toadstool
It’s like Ophiocordyceps unilateralis altering ants behavior. With one difference - these causing the human to solder MIDIpals =)
Beautifully soldered I might add…
like everything made by nature
I have little experience since I was around 12… never mushrooms - always practice, practice and more practice.
Around 1995 as a student I worked with Motorola/IBM PowerPC 604. Sometimes I desolder and resolder a complete 604 (CQFP-304pin) and a lot of other SMD stuff. That kind of soldering ends with the BGA packaging on the right. We tried it but it doesn’t worked well. ;-(
Here are some hints:
- Soldering station with 50W or more! No 8W toy please ;-). You need a constant heat. I am using the Weller WS81.
- Soldering iron tip: No needle for this kind of work. They can’t transfer enough heat. I prefer Weller LT H, LT K, or LT A for the bigger parts like TO220.
- Tweezers: I like Bernstein 5-053 and Belzer N° 5588 AM …
- If you often solder SMD it’s great to have a stereo microscope like my Novex AP-5. Its not so expensive but the biggest help. You can learn to solder SMD under its lens! Very helpful.
- Protective goggles because tin & flux can splash.
- Flux fume exhaust would be nice and save. Work under a wide open window also works fine ;-).
- A good quality solder with flux-core. I use 0.5 to 1mm lead and lead free solder wire. It depends on the project. Never mix it! Lead-free soldering needs much more practice!
- Solder Wick
- Flux paste
- Isopropyl or Kontakt WL
- An antistatic wrist strap and mat.
Did I miss something?
Back in the old days we do it similar to this video:
The Hakko bevel tip T15-CF3 was a good idea. I never use this kind of tip for my Weller. I have to try it.
You can see that the pins are instantly heat up by the soldering tip but the flux don’t burn to brown mud ;-).
That’s why a needle tip don’t work. You need a good heat transfer with enough power to hold the temperature constant.
For such a good quality you definitly need flux paste and the right temperature around 300 to 360 °C. Start around 310 °C.
If you used to much solder suck it away with solder wick. Then clean with isopropanol and start again with flux.
Built this with my son today (well, he added the finishing touches anyway)
Pretty AND functional