What is your current choice regarding the best OLED for a YM Shruthi? (or any other Shruthi for that matter)

I’ve used newhavens on several shruthi’s and they work great

I’ve used Newhavens in pale blue, green and yellow, Raystar red and white from Rapid, plus the white Electronic Assembly OLED from Reichelt. All with very good results so far.

thanks all - interesting no one mentioned midas

Didn’t know of Midas displays. I don’t know if they sell to us lowly end customers by the looks of it, but they do have a yellow-green 40x2 character OLED. Must check so that the dimensions are correct - it could be used in my next Ambika, or the MidiALF sequencer once we get to that stage…

Wouldn’t hurt to give them a ring later.

Edit: The OLED outline is 182x38.5x9.3mm. The Optrex seems to be 182x34.5x15.1. I need to measure things plus get the full drawing of the Optrex before I would say the OLED is OK.

We’ve had a few threads on these already. If you have a quick search, you’ll find part numbers too.

@Luap: True true. Been writing about the OLED gospel all over, but I missed the previous reference to Midas, plus their almost fitting Ambika OLED.

Guess mr fit will have to search the forum a bit.

Indeed i started this as the info is scattered and wondered if there were any new kids on the block , so to speak regarding manufacturers- time flies regarding oled tech

Fair enough :slight_smile:
I’ve only used the Newhaven ones. The blue/white one looked great in a 4PM. And the Yellow one was also very good in a Yellow magic edition.

VFD is where it’s at ! :wink:

segueing to unusual displays

@Fitvideo, I have a green Newhaven NHD-0216KZW-AG5 OLED on my YM Shruthi, it looks very nice! :slight_smile:

@Jojjelito, Farnell has that 40x2 Midas OLED in stock… it’s not exactly cheap though. :-/

@larsen I have to ask , why did you choose green and not yellow?

Well, I just sort of got the idea that green and yellow would look good together… :slight_smile:

@larsen and it does!

so your overall experience with the NHD ones is good?
after just a few weeks with mine on the prototype i’m working on I’ve got an ‘inverse death’ column.
that means i’ve got a stuck vertical line across the display.
Active pixels on the line are still shown - but twice as bright.
seems to be a short in the control matrix.

Am I just unlucky?

ive never had any problems with those. are you only connecting the pins you need? i use a 14 pin header when i use them. also remember to put a bypass cap on the power pins, oleds are noisey