OLED Socket Recommendation

Does anyone have any recommendation or Digikey part number for socketing an OLED display?

No idea if this is the right one, but I thought I would share this link:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ELECTRONIC-ASSEMBLY/EA-FL-16P/?qs=XoD1gVtqLQtUq9mBbFJDTaHYb2Iaq3Nt

I can’t see how you could socket a OLED, or a LCD, display on the Shurthi-1 with the original enclosure. There just is not space enough between the top PCB and the enclosure.

OLEDs are slimmer. I had to lift mine up about 3mm compared to an LCD.

Ah, okey, never mind me then. But still could you really fit a socket in like 6mm, or are we talking just longer pins here?

OLED’s are slimmer? Never realized that. I just started assembly of my 2nd Shruthi (SSM2044 this time :wink: ) with this OLED display:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=NHD-0216KZW-AY5-ND

Haven’t started the control board yet so I’ll check the height of the display to make sure it’s gonna fit the enclosure properly. If the pins on the header are long enough I can maybe lift the whole OLED assembly a little further from the mainboard.

Way slimmer and you dont have to connect all the pins either. I use them all the time since they are plenty thin so you dont have to have a cut out for the LCD in a clear case. Looks sharp and protects the display

@altitude do you have a part number for the LCD socket?

With my OLED I used the usual pin header, but fitted an extra row of black plastic pin header onto the pins to lift it up. So you do have a few millimetres to play with for socketing.

It comes down to convenience vs durability though.

I dont use a socket, what I do is assemble the case around it, then flip it upside down letting the LCD lay flat on the top panel and solder in place

Thats brilliant altidude :wink:

Clearly thinking inside the box!

I strenuously recommend socketing the display for a lot of reasons. First of all there are parts underneath that are inaccessible once the display is soldered in place. Second, it’s a bitch to remove these things once they’re in place. Third, it’s cheap and it makes sense! Here’s the part I used. Cheap as dirt and really really sensible.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=929870-01-16-RAvirtualkey51750000virtualkey517-929870-01-16-RA

How high does this raise the LCD? Is this only feasible with an OLED?

Very little. It’s really low. It doesn’t really raise the OLED up enough to be honest.

@Titus Great idea! how do you find the stability of the display modules when they are connected through this-is it fairly rigid or is there a bit of movement?

That Mouser 3M boardmount socket builds 3,8 mm or .150" so that should actually work for both LCD and OLED (if you leave longer pins), I stand corrected and will try this in the future.

But can you still leave out the cutout for the display if you put in the socket? I thought that was the coolest thing about the flat OLED displays, that you can put it under the plexi to protect it.

Should be ok with oled, iirc i measured ~8.6mm as the amount of room available between the board and case.

They fit tight. They don’t move around. With the OLED, you can fit something under it (piece of cardboard or foam) to take up the space. It is very solid for me.

But I don’t turn my XT over and shake it either? It just sits on a table? Anyway, I still don’t think it would move, and it has been in/out of the socket several times. Seems not to be a big deal.

The cool thing, besides being practical from a build/repair standpoint, is that this control board came from a standard Shruthi with a blue screen. I have a wasp XT so I wanted a yellow OLED to match. Someday, that board my end up in some other case where I might want a different color/look. With the socket, it’s easy!