No lights or sound D:

I tested the power in first place building the filter board first. I get a pop type noise when I plug it in. I havent soldered the screen yet.
Anything I can check?

POP noise with or without the filter board connected to an amplifier? If it’s connected to an amplifier, well, it shouldn’t be at this point. If it’s not, a popping noise is usually associated with an electrolytic capacitor mounted backwards. This has the effect of destroying them, also known as ‘letting the magic smoke out’. Check that the polarity of the electrolytic caps is ok. Replace any that aren’t - they aren’t trustworthy anymore.

Pop in a headphone speaker when I plug the power in. (The power has + tip, is this right?)
I’m pretty damb sure the caps are the right way but ill check.

OK, that’s the harmless kind of pop… A pop without speakers would be a lot worse… So you don’t have to check the caps. You’re correct, the power should be + tip. What filter board are you using? You mention that you don’t have the screen soldered yet, am I correct in thinking that you first tested the voltages with just the filter board and they were ok, and now you have installed the digital contral board? Are you sure the digital board did not touch the filter board during your test? That would be bad. As a first test, I suggest that you remove the digital board and re-check the voltages. If they’re still OK, reinstall the digital board and check the voltages on the connector (or on pin 10 of the MCU).

http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/149098_10151160994706028_1178613266_n.jpg
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/484993_10151160996856028_1326638890_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/63291_10151160685021028_2004484724_n.jpg

I tested the voltages with the filter board (standard) after building the power section like in the instructions. I am now putting the controller on.

I dont think they touched as I tried to make sure they didnt

What voltages am I looking for and where?



the blue dots are 0V (Ground)
you need to measure the voltages between the red and the blue dots for positive voltage (should have +5V)
and between the green and blue dots for negative (should be -5V)

red wire goes to red / green dots and black wire (GND) always to ground to have it correctly. and measure range 20V is ok.
this picture is also in the build manual on the main page: (clicky):

maybe remove all ICs except the LT1054 which is part of the power supply.

Took the IC’s out

With com on blue

TL072P IC2
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

LM13700N IC3
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

TL074P IC4
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

LM13700N IC6
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

TL074P IC7
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

LM13700N IC8
RED 4.98
GREEN -4.98

I did change C31 for
http://cpc.farnell.com/_/mcrr25104z5um0050/capacitor-ceramic-multilayer-radial/dp/CA05515?Ntt=CA05515
Cus I accidentally soldered one of the originals in C3.

I have put my own wire in for the pole selector so I can put a switch in later.

check for continuety on the connectors for ground and +5 between the digital board and the filter board.

+5 on one board to +5 on the other board. GND to GND. Checked and beeping on the meter.

Is there a short between the +5V and GND?

What is the voltage on the OSC> pin? If the MCU has booted, the PWM should be activated and it should be at +2.5V?

Possible causes for no LEDs:

  • MCU not booting (damaged chip, bad solder point, problem near the quartz).
  • Problem with the 595
  • No power
  • Short between +5V and ground (equivalent to no power indeed)
  • LEDs soldered backwards

I cant see a short (as in bad solder) between the pins that go between the boards.
Chips in. Boards together. GND to OSC on the filter = -3.88. On the controller nothing.

I’m gunna re check my solder joints in the morning. How do I check for these other possibilities? How do I check the chip/quartz/595

Thanks for the help this is my first proper kit, other than cheap kits and cirtcuit bending. I will resume in the morning.

when you check the solder joints, please reflow the joints in the red lines and make sure there’s no metallic left overs / dust between them. the ones marked seem a bit fishy but could also be from the camera and light.
the solder wires in the white highlighted area (where the lcd will come) need to be cut as close to the board as possible to avoid shorts later.
the soldering on your connection headers looks fine.

one thing isn’t clear: do you have the correct voltages on the control board also when it’s connected? if there’s a short on the control board the power should break down on the filter board also as soon as inserted.

I’ll redo these joints.

Where am I checking from and to?

The ground and +5 points of the connector on the digital board.You have 4,98 Volt on the filter board, you should have exactly the same on these points of the digital board

Got lights on. Band solder on the controller GND.
Gunna see if it makes a noise now.

Cheers for helpig guys. Got LEDs and sound… Didnt have the cable to the amp plugged in the right hole at first. DOH!