Need help for my wasp xt

Hi shruthi gang !
My wasp is alive and 90%working i guess
1 i have already tested the switch section but it isn’t finnished because i don’t know how to plug the smr 4 BP1 and BP3
2 i have a broken pot so i found in my stock a similar 10k but it’s not an alpha does it matter ? on his backside there’s a hole he is opposite to this on the alpha pots do i have to invert something ?
3 When i have plug the 4 rainbow cable on he programmer there a trouble one is working perfectly the second one looks like ok but one pot control many cc at the same time and the 2 other won’t work at all
Maybe it’s because i haven’t plug the smr4 switch
Please help me !
Nico

the pole switch has nothing to do with the pot scanning. it’s more likely some bad solder joints somewhere.
the pots are 10K linear. it doesn’t matter which manufacturer, but would be good if you can use the same knobs, and if it has a similar feeling when you turn it. i have a bunch of them here, if you’re in trouble i can send you one.

thx roch for the advice and the propose of sending (if i need it i will send you a pm, but i live far away in the south long time for sending)
The remplaced pot seems good to me after rechecking
port 1 send all control but in reverse EDIT the values of the pots are not complete for example : cutof is open to 31 and close 124
port 2 send 7 control correctly always reversed (one is the changed pot) and another modify many values at the same time on port 2
port 3 & 4 does nothing
Theres a way to control the programmer board ?
anyone could explain to me what i should solder on the BP1 BP3 switch and the filter board BP1 on the board to BP1 on the switch or it’s like on the pole switch do i have to invert them ?

You probably have the old handmade board from Frank, don’t you? These tend to be a bit tricky to solder, and the contacts bridge easily. Recheck all the solder joints and make sure you don’t have any bridged contacts. And you should do some voltage/resistance tests… but I can’t remember how they worked unfortunately.

Yo Nicore,
Sorry for the broken Pot, you can replace it with any 10K lin Pot you can get, it really doesn’t matter electrically, although its nicer to have all the same for (hopefully) the same feel everywhere. I can send a Replacement as well if you are OK with the Aeons it takes…

The instructions for wiring the SMR-4 mk2 Filter Switch is in the Filter Boards Building Instructions right after Step 16 at the end. They have nothing to do with the function of the Programmer.

For the Ports: First, Check that you have correct Power at the Rails for the Pots. Then Check continuity between the middle Pin of the Pot and the matching Pin not the Chip, you may look at the Schematics for help.

If thats OK, check if there are no shorts between the Lines from the Pots to the Chips. The CV Line on the PCB seems to be OK if you have one perfectly working Port. You may check the Select/Enable Line from the 137 to the nonworking ports, its PIN 6 on each 4051. And Maybe you swap Chips to make shure all 4051s are working correctly.

@rumpelfiter : yes i have the handmade labelled #8 hard to solder but no bridge :frowning:

@fcd72 : thx no replacement needed yet; it’s not an alpha pot but it’s look like the same feeling my problem is not here
I have made a little 3D for the SP3T wiring good or not ?

i will check the power rail again thx for the schematics draw it could help me
i will comeback after checking !

Cool Pic!

Very cool!

Hi! REPORT after test
This morning i take the time to check my controler. For the first time in my shrutiversum i felt somewhere…
I swap all the 4051 = nothing change
After many test i locate* my problem in the port 1 but i don’t know how to find what it is (*locate by swaping of port = same problem for ever port)
I have resolder all the bad looking solder point and now, nothing work only one knob from the port 1 and it change many values at the same time i suspect a short bridge but there’s nothing
I never had to use a multimeter before i only do the cheking with image for the build test i’m totaly lost with the Schematics given by Franck
How do i chek if i have the correct power at the rails
How do i set up my mutlimeter to chek the continuity between the middle Pin of the Pot and the matching Pin not the Chip
I’m sorry for this dumb newbie questions but i so close to my goal…
Nico