Atmel’s own AVR ISP MkII is arguably the most reliable programmer out there, works consistently under OS X and Windows, using both avrdude and AVRStudio, never seen it acting up.
I use a Mac with OS X 10.6. Get that AVRISP MkII and then just install CrossPack. The rest is easy also. I can help you then. I just did it with the MidiBUD. And I am german too.
You don´t need “fuses” you only need CrossPack. The rest is entering the right lines on the console.
If you want I can give you telephone support then.
Many thanks for your positive response!
The knobs I used are RE’AN F313 and F317 series. They have a rubber surface and feel quite good. I found them at Conrad for € 0.57. The front panel I cut and drilled myself from a 2.5 mm aluminium sheet on a CNC I have access to. For this I had to pick up all the measures from the PCB Eagle file from kvitekp. It’s EU modular size, so I could also screw it to a rack. The front painting is my design. The letter style is adapted from the Roland TR-909. I found this font file somewhere in the web. The case I made from some pieces of plywood from the local hardware store. All in all the case with panel took me at least 10 times the time of the board… so don’t ask for doing this again Actually, I thought of a custom panel at Schaeffer but this was around € 100.
How did you apply the graphics to the front panel?
Thanks for the Info. Ordered some of these knobs. And I installed the 909 font.
Thanks for your input - I will order the AVR ISP. Should I also get a new ATMEGA or just try reflashing the old one?
This was indeed the most sophisticated part. I did the graphics with CorelDraw and printed it to a proper sheet of paper. Then I stabilised the paper with a small amount of matte transparent PU-based spray. Then I punched out the round holes. Then I glued/attached the paper with the same spray to the alumnium panel using the holes for alignment. After drying I cut the edge and the rectangle with a scalpel. Then I painted the inner and outer faces in black. Finally I applied an overall layer of this matte transparent lacquer.
Of course this is an elaborate procedure but the result is amazing. Hardcore-DIY
The result is amazing, thanks for the info.
@cereyanlimusiki — the 612-TL1100-6JBLK are the same with a flat, square black cap added and the cap is removable. Got them today.
Great work, Picard!
loopino if you could produce a step by step write-up for flashing the MidiALF MCU under MacOSX and send to pete to put on the MidiALF page that would be very useful
This would be great
Great idea! The instructions should be very similar to the ones published here for Shruthi-1, only the .hex files names will be different. I believe that the fuse settings are the same.
Update: I finished my second MidiALF today and just programmed it with my AVRISPmkII.
So here is what you have to do:
- Download and install Crosspack
- Copy the .hex files from github into a folder on your desktop (or anywhere where you find them later).
- Turn your MidiALF on.
- Connect your AVRISPmkII to your USB port and stick the ribbon cable to your 2x3 pin AVR ISP header. Red lane left. The AVRISP led should change from red to green now.
- Right-click one .hex file and open the infos for the file. There copy the path. E. g.: /Users/macbookpro/Desktop/Synths/MidiAlf/midialf_094
- Open programs-utilities: Terminal
- Change the path to the above folder. In this example: “cd /Users/macbookpro/Desktop/Synths/MidiAlf/midialf_094” - The terminal says "localhost:midialf_094 macbookpro$ " then.
- Paste the following line at the prompt: "avrdude -B 100 -V -p m644p -c avrispmkII -P usb -e -u -U efuse:w:0xfd:m -U hfuse:w:0xd6:m -U lfuse:w:0xff:m
U lock:w:0x2f:m" and press enterAfter avrdude said thank you…
- Paste the lines: “avrdude -B 1 -V -p m644p -c avrispmkII -P usb -U flash:w:midialf_094.hex:i -U flash:w:muboot.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m”
That´s it. From step 3 it took 2 minutes and now it´s Version 0.94. If you want another version you have to change the mentioned midialf_XXX.hex file of course.
Hope this helps!
Updated the flashing instructions.
There is one point for the Midi LEDs in the building instructions: Add note on polarity… Perhaps you could add a note that the polarity of these two is different.
Fixed, thank you!