I just finished a Shruthi as my first kit assembly project. Everything sounds excellent but my output volume is low. If I crank the track volume and the master volume to max in Ableton Live the signal is still less than half of the VU meter. I have a multimeter and my original power supply test back in ‘smr4mkII build step 5’ was normal. Is there another test I can do now that I’ve finished my assembly? I’m not sure where to start.
I guess I’m looking for noob multimeter advice.
What interface are you using? Can you adjust volume there first? No pad on?
Motu Ultralight mk3 - line in 3 - no pad.
When all my faders in Ableton are set to unity I see about a sixth of the peak meter light green. Shruthi sounds great when I boost her but I wonder if something is wrong. I got the white metal enclosure so I used white LEDs instead of green and 1k resistors instead of 220 for the LED brightness. Also I used a different LCD screen from sparkfun.com that is white text on black.
I’m using a 9V, 300mA power supply.
That seems weird, considering that the shruthi is normally an exceptionally hot little beast…
Seems silly, but don’t know if there is a HI-Z option on the ultralight, and if that is turned on, what exactly that would do in terms of volume(I guess drop it entirely, or make it unusable).
So you soldered the pads on the in/out connectors, and didn’t connect any resistors or potentiometers there, right? (The pads pretty much next to the connector)
Could you post a picture of your filter board?
V`cent - It’s not the interface because my analog mixer has the same level when plugged into there. I soldered the pads but maybe I need to add more solder there.
V`cent - Your question about the in/out connectors led me to add more solder there. In specific I added solder on both the underside as well as the top side of the circuit board and now I am getting full signal.
Whoops, not solved, I was mistaken. I think I’m ok with the level though. Everything else sounds perfect.
Can I take off the control board off and send power to the filter board to retest the power supply? I dont know if I can “re-test” the power supply without frying anything.
Yes you can power the filter without control board.
Ok all, My power supply test revealed +5v at the correct points but -4.95v at all negative points (green/red dots on the SMR4 assembly power supply test)
I guess that’s within spec, right?
Good to hear, if it still bothers you, please reflow the entire bottom area on the second picture (only the stuff on the left,so 12 pads, as seen in the picture), by reflowing I mean heating the pad/solder until all the solder on that side is liquid, and then removing the iron, thereby making sure that everything is nice and well connected(so no intermittent/highish resistance connections). If it’s not that, then I’m out of my depth(unless it’s a resistor swap somewhere…).