Anyone know of a UK source for the testing jumper wires supplied with the Shruthi-1/SMR-4 kit? Those ones are from Sparkfun, but I REALLY don’t want to order just those from the US with £6 postage and a possible several weeks wait.
Frustratingly, I find myself in need of a couple more (or possibly 8 more) of the little bastards to tune the Dual SVF board filters.
you can make your own easily (if you have the crimp stuff+ housings).
i’ve bought my first stuff from smashTV a few years back (also the crimp tool), and a while back i’ve found literally just one german source on ebay. i happen to have received some 6x and 8x crimp housings just today. so if you like to get started without big delay i could send you a pair of each tomorrow
I always solder a piece of rainbow cable to this and parts of that
takes 5 minutes and is a bit pesky but you only need to do this once . . . .
Cool Components has them - http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=48_49. I’ve ordered loads of stuff from them in the past with no problems and they’ve always shipped quickly.
Thanks for the tips guys. I found my ratchet crimper and a bag of pins, so I made my own, in the end. Took me bloody ages! I’ve never got the hang of crimping connectors, somehow, but I managed to make up the extra 8 leads I needed, and while not elegant, they were good enough to test the SVF, anyway.
i’m not too excited about crimping too, but unless i find a good source for these cables it seems like i’ll have to cope with it
Off topic but somewhat related question - I am in the middle of building my second x0xi0, the one with the custom x0xb0x boards that Brian designed. He sandwiches two boards together, and with the custom x0xb0x board, he eliminates many of the wire connections previously required to connect the two boards, by using a pin header that connects the boards. This header is soldered to each board - so I’m concerned that I will have no way of testing the boards before soldering them together. Are there cables/connectors that I could use to temporarily connect the two boards? I could solder the header onto one of the two boards, and use the wires talked about above to make connections to that board, but then how to connect the other end of the wire to the other board?? Hope that makes sense…
I am not sure about the problem - but from your description it looks like the two boards are connected permanently by a male-male connector like this:http://www.4uconnector.com/online/object/4udrawing/18670.pdf This won’t make disassembling easy…
Isn’t is possible to replace it with a female header on the bottom board + male header on the upper board? Or some cables like on the first Shruti?
@rosch I can order some from Cool Components for you if you like. The UK > Germany postage would probably not be much less than the US > Germany postage if you got them directly from Sparkfun though.
I have bought some 8:8 and 6:6 ribbon cable, on one end of which I have attached a male-male header. I use them all the time to connect boards - and I’m considering switching to this for the next batch of kits.
Otherwise it takes me more time to find the cables from my “bordel” bin than to tune the filter
@pichenettes - yes, the x0xi0 boards are connected with a male-male header similar to the one you linked to, and yes, disassembly is not going to be easy - thus my question. I believe the reason that Brian did not consider a female header on one side and male on the other is that the boards need to be sandwiched very tightly to allow for the front panel to lay on top properly. See this video , at about 1:26 you can see him place the headers, and how short in height they are… I don’t have the boards in front of me, but I’d say that there’s probably less than 0.75 cm between the two when assembled (you can see this towards the end of the video). That’s the challenge.
I’ve watched the vid. Now I understand the problem better… and I can’t see any solution…
there are two possible ways i could think of, one of them as shaky as testing the lcd unsoldered on the shruthi. you could try it by soldering the headers to one board and try to make connection to the other board while using a bit of pressure in one direction. but for that they have to be all the same, all perfectly 90° and you’d probably need two hands and still couldn’t be sure about the connection.
the other way would be using a basket full of crocodile clamps. i don’t know if there are other copper tracks in the way before the headers that could be shorted… anyway quite difficult.
or, even more work, but i guess you have no problem with desoldering:
you could try to put some headers in the holes of the second board, but at an angle closer to 45° and apply a little pressure so all of the pins make contact to the copper and just nail the two outer pins to the board with a little bit of solder. then you could test the pins in between for continuity to the board. then use the croco. after that you’d just have to remove the plastic parts that keep the header pins together and desolder the outer pins, which should be easy.
sorry that’s a really ugly workaround, and i’d be too lazy to do it that way… maybe there are tests like on the x0xb0x itself, that show if the circuits generally function, without having to connect all headers? like each section at a time?
maybe you could even attach a croco clamp to the next resistor lead so you could waive the double pin header…
Thanks guys - rosch, your suggestion about putting the header in at angle, and “sort of” soldered in may do the trick. Ugly as you say, but maybe it would work! Brian is supposed to be coming up with a testing protocol, so maybe he’ll have some magic up his sleeves… Sorry for the off-topic digression!