Before applying more heat and force to the board, just leave the wire in the hole. And then solder the resistor like a surface mount device from top of the board.
@cj55: That makes too much sense to work. It has to be more complex than that.
However, if you can’t get the wire out and you are afraid of damaging the pad, that is a fair compromise.
Well, well… I can’t believe it - adding more solder worked and the wire is out! Massive thanks to 6581punk and fcd72 for the suggestion. I’m going to replace the capacitor (it was a ceramic capacitor, not a resistor… kept calling it the wrong thing) that I clipped out as I’m worried it had too much heat applied with all the previous poking.
Anyway, I am now up to step 14 and found that there is a styroflex capacitor missing from my kit - I don’t think I’ll bother pichenettes with this as I need to get that replacement 100nF capacitor anyway.
Big, big thanks to everyone who chimed in here - who knows if the thing will work at the end of all this, but I feel much happier that I was able to get past this problem - it’s a learning curve but I’m enjoying it!
the 100n Caps are decoupling caps - you can go without. But while you are at it order some more 100n its the most common size (i order them by 250s )
I return with another problem! So close to finishing my Shruthi and I have discovered that I’ve soldered the female connectors to the control board instead of the male ones, photo attached. It is step 9 in the instructions - I saw the photo of the female connector and assumed those were the ones I needed. I didn’t look closely enough at the pic before it.
Can anyone advise on the best course of action? Doesn’t look like these will be easy to des older at all
You might be able to get some more female connectors and just solder those to the filter board. Does the plexi top still fit with the female ends sticking up like that (I’m probably going to regret writing that)? If not, you could use a Dremel and cutoff disk to trim those.
Hi piscione, thanks for the advice, it sounds like a good solution to me - I haven’t had a minute to check if the case still fits, but trimming the ends won’t be a problem anyway. Is there anything I need to be aware of when buying new headers? I found these which look identical to me: http://proto-pic.co.uk/arduino-stackable-header-kit/
I ordered those parts, clipped them a bit and everything fit nicely. I finished building the Shruthi last night and… it works! I had prepared myself for the worst, so when it all lit up and sounds came from it, I fist pumped the air like a lunatic. It was so satisfying assembling the case and screwing it all together, it’s a really brilliantly designed module.
Anyway, I wanted to say a big thank you to everyone who posted in this thread as I couldn’t have done it without your help. I made some mistakes along the way, but I’m glad I managed to recover from them and get to the end with a brand new synthesizer. The sound is great and I’m getting used to the interface quickly. Next job: Ambika!
Finally - there is a little comment at the end of the filter board instructions that I didn’t notice at first:
“Make sure that both the analog (CV1 to +5V) and digital (RX to +5V) ports of the filter and control boards are connected.”
Unless this was covered in a previous step, I don’t think it’s done - is it necessary? I mean, it’s working just fine, so I’m curious about what this does. Also, in my kit there is a tiny plastic strip with two littles dots, are these the ghost eyes?
> is it necessary?
Hey, if it’s the instructions, it’s necessary
If you don’t do that, you won’t be able to control the filter mode.
> are these the ghost eyes?
Haha, good point, I guess I was hoping it was something I’d already done without realising. Switching between filter types (LP, BP, HP) already works, do you mean choosing different filter boards?
How do I make those connections? Bearing in mind that I now have female headers poking up out of the top of my control board
> do you mean choosing different filter boards?
No, I meant switching between LP/BP/HP.
Please post a photo of your build because I don’t know which black magic allows it to work.
Now I have that sinking feeling… here are photos…
> Unless this was covered in a previous step, I don’t think it’s done
Huh, you have both the digital and analog connections headers in place.
So it’s correct then?
I know I’m probably infuriating to help, but as a complete beginner a lot of the terminology is confusing to me! That instruction seemed like an extra step that needed to be taken, I did say I wasn’t sure it had been completed in an earlier step. I see now that the headers are responsible for making those connections.
The title of this thread seems very over-dramatic now…
Thanks pichenettes, it’s a great synth, you’re a clever man.
And yes those tiny pieces are the leds for the ghost eyes.
Soldering those is a real challenge tho.