Yeah, I know that the bootloader should prevent this from happening, however, somehow I seem to have found a workaround, and managed to brick it anyway… Despite owning the thing for ~2 years now…
First, some pictures :
More rare ‘party mode’ - comes with all leds lit !
So, how did I do it?
Well, I started out buying a different piece of gear… wait… never mind, not really relevant…
I realized that I was on firmware 0.92, and hadn’t used my shruthi for quite some time, so why not update it, and use it again?
I fired up S6 V1.4D, found the syx file for the newest version, and tried sending it to my shruthi in update mode… Seemed to be received, but didn’t do anything, and was still on 0.92… So I remembered something about speed, and looked for the midi delay to use, set C6 to 250ms and tried again… This time around it worked, but the shruthi didn’t restart on it’s own, so I ended up pulling the power plug out, and restarting… Except it didn’t load ANYTHING when I tried again… So, back into firmware upload mode, upload firmware, shruthi stalls, I try again, nothing happens, I pull the power plug yet again… And now, it doesn’t do anything except what’s seen in the two pictures… “Party mode” is quite rare though, only happens every ~20 power-ons… Oh yes, it should be mentioned that the soldering on my powerjack has become dodgy in the process, since I have one of the older enclosures, where “fat” power plugs have to be shoved in
Send me back the chip and I will flash it…
Was afraid that would be the conclusion… Guess I gotta hurry up with my Reichelt order then, since I wanted to buy a programmer anyway…
Thank you for the kind offer though
A programmer has been a worthwhile investment. I bought it to do the MidiPAL but I’ve used it on Ambika voicecards and I reprogrammed a Shruthi-1 chip for Ambika when my ATMega chip didn’t turn up from ebay.
If anyone ever needs any flashing doing around the midlands area in UK I don’t mind. I also just repaired someone’s SMR-4 and control board.
Yep, AVRISP MKII is worth every cent.
It damn well better be, seeing that it costs 4000 of them !
I’m just wondering how to turn a brick into a shruthi (I’ve got a few bricks in the garage).
Step 1: Hollow out brick, drill holes for potentiometers.
Step2-10: Find a new brick, since the old one cracked.
Step 11: Put in shruthi hardware, have LCD lying around somewhere outside the brick.
Step 12: Assemble brick.
Step 13: Disassemble brick.
Step 14: Put in the audio jacks that you forgot.
Step 15: Assemble brick.
Step 16: Disassemble brick.
Step 17: Put in the midi+power jacks you forgot.
Step 18: Assemble brick.
Step 19: Success!
(Optional step twenty, brick the brick…Very meta indeed)
Maybe mega-dumb question, but the programming header on the current revision of Shruthi-1 mainboards doesn’t look like it is usable once the pots are soldered in place, or am I missing something?
Jeebus, I had to turn my shruthi upside down to find it >_<
You can solder it in both ways, so either sticking out on the side with the pots on, or on the bottom (facing away from the LCD/on the same side as the ATMega)…
Depending on which side you chose, you will either run into problems (LCD side) or not (ATMega side)…
On the v0.7 of the board (the most common one), the header needs to be soldered on top (it would be silly to solder it on the back, all the pins would be reverted).
It doesn’t get in the way.
If the pots get in the way then your pots are too big?
well, on my last control board, using the same mouser pots than on the ambika, the pots get slightly in the way, but it’s not a problem.
V'cent: Hmm.. Step 1: Hollow out brick, drill holes for potentiometers.
Truer than you might think V`cent - I’ve just started another thread about…
synths built into logs
Well, my shruthi was delivered with a older than 0.92 firmware (i updated it at some point) so I clearly don’t have the newest boards
Thank you for the explanation, didn’t realize that the ISP slot was moved, even though it does make perfect sense…
@yewtreemagic So meta you don’t even .
I’ve had to move the LCD slightly on one of my unit to get the plug on. But that has the OLED.
On my first boards I soldered the pins on the wrong side, thankfully they came out easy after I used my desoldering station.
Thanks for the repllies everyone. Was testing on a v0.7 control board using Mouser/Ambika pots and a $2 6-to-10 pin adapter from Ebay-have been a bit more forceful and found I can wedge it in fine.