Glitched's Shruti-1 Case Available For Download

Technology Synth-DIY
#1

Re: http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/comments.php?DiscussionID=74&page=1#Item_13

I have finished the modifications to my original case and can now offer it, for free, on ponoko.com: http://ponoko.com/showroom/glitched/shruti-1-synthesizer-case-4530
Download the .svg and modify it, if you wish.

With 3.0mm white acrylic, the making costs end up to be around $18 USD (+shipping).
These are the standoffs I used:

McMaster PN#
91780A427 ALUMINUM FEMALE THREADED HEX STANDOFF, 1/4" HEX, 13/32" LENGTH, 4-40 SCREW SIZE
91780A103 ALUMINUM FEMALE THREADED HEX STANDOFF, 3/16" HEX, 1/4" LENGTH, 2-56 SCREW SIZE

The 1/4" standoffs support the control and i/o PCBs; the 3/16" standoffs go with the LCD. Remember: you’ll need to get the screws that mate with the standoffs. (4-40’s are easy to find, but 2-56’s may not be readily available. I was lucky to find a Radio shack with an assortment.) As I mentioned in the aforementioned thread, I opted to glue the standoffs to the case, using epoxy. This worked best for me, but you can use whatever method you want.

You will have to glue the four sides to the bottom to keep it sturdy, but the top should fit pretty well without any adhesive (you might want to get in there one day, anyway).

I spent a lot of time on the design, but am offering it up for free, in the spirit of open-sourceness.

If you would like to donate a small amount of money, which will subsidize future projects (including the purchase of a Shruthi-1 and subsequent case design for it, which will be shared), send via paypal to: dl [at] glitched [dot] org.

Thanks!
-d

#2

nice. i may take you up on this!

Q: I can’t see it in yr pics, but is there an opening in your design for access to the HACKME inputs?

#3

See you in 24 days, black acrylic case!

#4

@billygomberg
No, there are no hack_me ports. This is a “barebones” version of my original case.
I decided against the ports because the jacks didn’t really fit on the back and I didn’t want to ruin the compactness of the thing by extending the back plate.
You are free to add to the .svg file, as long as you give me credit (if you post the file, publicly.)

@pichenettes
I’m honored that the creator this fine project will be using my design for one of his Shruti’s! Can’t wait to see what it looks like in black.

By the way, if I do get any donations, I will only accept up to the price of a Shruthi pcb+“rare chip”.

Thanks.

#5

that’s fine. I’m gonna make this in blonde bamboo and dremel the port for hack_me myself - I’m not at that stage of this project yet so I’m cool to wait on that (I just finally got all my materials together to assemble the shruti…LONG story).

thanks a lot for yr work on this glitched, I’ll post pics oh whenever this comes in!

was about $28 (incl shipping).

#6

I wish I was doing all this from the US! Even from mfg hubs in Europe (Italy, UK or Germany), the shipping fees are at least $30.

#7

@billygomberg
Beware the differences in material thickness; however, If it’s just a couple tenths of a mm, you should be fine.

#8

yeah it’s 3mm for the acrylic, 2.7mm for the bamboo

#9

Wow that was fast… Just shipped!

#10

well, I guess you deserve it quicker than the rest of us!

#11

That’s crazy! Can’t wait to see it in black!

#12

For the occasion I opened the box of the last kit (it was a kit without CEM3379 and screen I prepared for someone who did not buy it) and assembled it, since the only thing I had for Shruti-related development was an earlier proto - which turned out to be very fragile. It was the first time I saw it fully assembled on a red PCB, and it looks quite sexy! So now I’m wondering whether I’ll go with black or red for the Shruthi…

I think I’ll use the fragile proto for “reverse troubleshooting” - messing badly with it trying reproduce some of the problems you experience - and keep the newly assembled one as the “golden” unit. Funny how it started with something I wanted to build for myself, and in the end, I’m the last one to get one :slight_smile:

#13

Received, all pieces seem to fit, but there was one “ear” on the side panel that was broken. I have no glue anyway so I won’t assemble it tonight… I’ll also have to do the cabling!

Looks cool!

#14

Ok, with enough duct tape we can always pretend pieces are held in place together :smiley:

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Ace! Now let’s get some real glue!

#15

Damn, that looks nice. I almost like it better in black.
I’m very proud of the design and am glad that you’re using it, Oliver.

#16

WOW that looks so nice in black!

i have a stupid question: i am having a little problem with the midi jacks- they are kind of wobbley already. Are the any holes in the enclosure to secure the jacks against the enclosure? I have a feeling they wont last too long otherwise…

do you think it would be easy to add these holes to the design, or handdrill them afterwards?
anybody else have these concerns/problems?

#17

In fact (and it’s easier to see on the white version), the rectangular hole for the MIDI connector is large so it doesn’t cover the tiny holes around the MIDI connector.

Maybe glueing the perimeter of the connector to the back panel would help a bit…

#18

Wow, it does look very nice in black I’m starting to think that I may make a hybrid of glitched full case design, with oootini/smrl’s panels…

#19

pichenettes, thanks for elaborating. so - your jacks are very stable i assume? right now my shruti is still sans case and every time i plug in/unplug the midi cable i give the jacks a little support. this wouldn’t be possible once cased… hm… what to do?

glue is one option. i really dont want to desolder anything since i almost broke my wtpa when desoldering multi contact components (well actually i broke it, and fixed it again afterwards). maybe i will alter the case design a little… bring the “roof” of the midi holesdown a bit and add a hole for the top screw…

#20

This is one of the reasons I was thinking of a hybrid approach - ootini/smrl’s ponoko design (on bamboo) has holes in the back, not a larger rectangular opening, for the MIDI jacks. oootini/smrl - do your MIDI jack holes cover the tiny holes around the MIDI connector, so some stabilizing screws could be added?