Encoders

Technology Synth-DIY
#1

HI,

probably a stupid question:
do all encoders with switches have the same pinout, and, if not, is there any way of telling the pinout by disassembling them and looking inside?

I’m trying to replace two broken encoders in my MOTU 828 Mk3. I’ve managed to remove the encoders, but there are no markings on them saying what they are. I’ve managed to establish that they’re 24-increment ones, by rotating one of the working ones and counting the clicks, but I’m a bit stuck in terms of finding out more about them.

a|x

#2

> do all encoders with switches have the same pinout,

No! Some of them have the two quadrature switches reversed (so left and right rotation are reversed), and some of them have the “push” switch swapped with one of the quadrature switches. But as far as I know, I have never seen parts which look exactly the same from the outside but differ from the inside.

Send a picture of the part, we might be able to identify the manufacturer…

#3

Hallo toneburst

see here: Arduino encoder

ore here: rotary encoder

Best Rolf

#4

Wow, that was quick! Thanks guys!

I had a vague recollection of fitting a Shruthi encoder, and finding it went the wrong way, now you mention it, Pichenettes.

I’m out at the moment, but I’ll take a photo as soon as I get home.

Thanks again.

a|x

#5

Some encoders are optical too.

#6

I think this one is mechanical (not enough pins to be optical, I don’t think).

a|x

#7

Not great photos, but here they are:


a|x

#8

Anyone recognise them?
I don’t think they’re Alps.

a|x

#9

They’re all the same, incidentally, just at two different angles.

a|x

#10

I doubt it matters what brand as long as they fit and are tall enough. Chances are, those are not off the shelf parts

#11

The closest I got to finding a parts with similar appearance(based on the holes in the top on each corner) was a part made by Noble.

#12

@altitude it’s more about the pinout. They might fit, but not work properly.

@6581punk oh, you spotted it? Cool, do you have a link for that?

a|x

#13

It was this, but it doesn’t have a metal shaft.

http://www.nobleusa.com/pdf/xre.pdf

#14

No one’s going to use an exotic encoder in a cheapish device like that. try a shruthi one and see if it works. I’ll bet 90% of encoders out in the world have the exact same pinout.

Looks like a PEC11R-4015F-S0024 will be pretty close height wise

#15

It wasn’t that cheap…

The problem with just soldering in a replacement, without knowing if it’s the right one, is that I will then have to desolder it, if it didn’t turn out to work.

I know from bitter experience that attempting to desolder and resolder the same component more than once is a recipe for disaster.

I have some fairly ugly jumper wires on several projects because of just such attempts. They all work, but it’s relatively easy to bodge a repair to a through-hole board, but much trickier when the board has been wave-soldered with mostly SMT parts.

a|x

#16

then just use jumper wires to confirm functionality, dont solder the part in

#17

Not sure what you mean. I’d still have to solder the jumper wires, then desolder them when I’d confirmed the part works, so I don’t see the advantage. I must be missing something…

a|x

#18

It takes less than one second to solder and desolder a wire to a pad. Whereas to desolder an encoder is much more difficult.

#19

Ok, good point, cj55. I’ll give that a go with one of my spare Shruthi encoders, then.

a|x

#20

Yep, you can tack them on. No need to solder through hole.