It’s been in my head for quite some time and now it’s finally in real life. It’s going to get a matching set of knobs soon, but for now:
I must have accidentally soldered my 5V and GND wires to the board backwards, but that just means the joystick and pots react inversely, and it’ll be a quick fix. The joystick is AWESOME though!
As you can see from the third photo, I didn’t consider how large the joystick pots are, and so I had to make a cutout in the side of the panel which I accidentally butchered, but that I can fix next time I have some stuff laser cut. Once I have a nice side panel with a clean cutout, it’ll basically be like a hot rod with a hole cut in the hood to fit a big engine or something.
If you want to do something similar, download the .svg file here if you’d like. If you do, here’s what I learned:
- I had to enlarge/slot my bottom panel mounting holes with a drill because for one reason or another, my drawing had the holes too far away from the rear panel so the top and rear panels wouldn’t fit properly. Maybe compare hole location with the original case files, or just moving the holes towards the rear panel about 1.5mm should fix it, since that’s what I effectively did.
- My joysticks are NOS that I got on eBay, so unfortunately I don’t have tips on sourcing. I think they are 10k linear pots, and like most folks around here, 10k linear seems to work great with the CV inputs.
- I wanted to use a a 90 degree header and a plug for the wiring, but I didn’t leave enough space between the joystick body and the PCBs so I had to improvise. I ended up using a female header which you would normally solder to a PCB but I soldered wires to the pins and covered them each with heat shrink. It’s totally functional but if I did it again I’d just give myself more clearance. Giving the joystick more room would maybe let you fit in MTA-100 plugs, as that was my plan. Or just skip all that and solder directly to the PCB, which would work just fine as-is.
- The LED holes are sized for 3mm LEDs, but I decided to hold off on desoldering mine for now. I may just enlarge the holes and use Fresnel lenses.
- The .svg file is formatted (or I think it is…) to Ponoko specs. I used 2.7mm blonde bamboo and am fairly happy with it in this application, though the raster parts without vector outlines don’t show up very well (the logo being the main issue there)
- I had holes cut on the back panel for 3.5mm CV input jacks, but I didn’t leave enough clearance from the joystick (recurring theme…) so they aren’t useable. My plan was to add protection diodes to the inputs and normal 5V to the switched jacks so then when I plug in external CVs, the pots and joystick would act as attenuators.
- The indicator lines on CV 3 and CV 4 didn’t extend to where they should have on my version, but I corrected this on the uploaded file.
- In hindsight, I wish I would have added the bandpass and 2/4 pole and maybe some of the SDE mods to the front or an expanded top panel. Though, this case will likely end up getting a Dual SVF or Digital filter once I have an XT when they are released, so maybe I was reading my own mind.
- I cut little pieces of the leftover clear sticky rubbery stuff from the standard case feet and put them on the top of the encoder shaft to give it enough clearance to ‘click’ with the small hole but standard length encoder shaft. Works fine!
stimresp "Noisy Little Bugger Shruthi":http://www.mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/2947/case-design-questions-re-sending-svgs-for-cutting-tip-on-installing-window#Item_14 and pakir wooden case were definitely in mind when I was laying everything out.
Hopefully someone will find this useful! I am happy to have something to finally give back to everyone here