CV Joystick + Bamboo Shruthi Case: photos and file inside!

Hello all!

It’s been in my head for quite some time and now it’s finally in real life. It’s going to get a matching set of knobs soon, but for now:

I must have accidentally soldered my 5V and GND wires to the board backwards, but that just means the joystick and pots react inversely, and it’ll be a quick fix. The joystick is AWESOME though!

As you can see from the third photo, I didn’t consider how large the joystick pots are, and so I had to make a cutout in the side of the panel which I accidentally butchered, but that I can fix next time I have some stuff laser cut. Once I have a nice side panel with a clean cutout, it’ll basically be like a hot rod with a hole cut in the hood to fit a big engine or something. :slight_smile:

If you want to do something similar, download the .svg file here if you’d like. If you do, here’s what I learned:

  • I had to enlarge/slot my bottom panel mounting holes with a drill because for one reason or another, my drawing had the holes too far away from the rear panel so the top and rear panels wouldn’t fit properly. Maybe compare hole location with the original case files, or just moving the holes towards the rear panel about 1.5mm should fix it, since that’s what I effectively did.
  • My joysticks are NOS that I got on eBay, so unfortunately I don’t have tips on sourcing. I think they are 10k linear pots, and like most folks around here, 10k linear seems to work great with the CV inputs.
  • I wanted to use a a 90 degree header and a plug for the wiring, but I didn’t leave enough space between the joystick body and the PCBs so I had to improvise. I ended up using a female header which you would normally solder to a PCB but I soldered wires to the pins and covered them each with heat shrink. It’s totally functional but if I did it again I’d just give myself more clearance. Giving the joystick more room would maybe let you fit in MTA-100 plugs, as that was my plan. Or just skip all that and solder directly to the PCB, which would work just fine as-is.
  • The LED holes are sized for 3mm LEDs, but I decided to hold off on desoldering mine for now. I may just enlarge the holes and use Fresnel lenses.
  • The .svg file is formatted (or I think it is…) to Ponoko specs. I used 2.7mm blonde bamboo and am fairly happy with it in this application, though the raster parts without vector outlines don’t show up very well (the logo being the main issue there)
  • I had holes cut on the back panel for 3.5mm CV input jacks, but I didn’t leave enough clearance from the joystick (recurring theme…) so they aren’t useable. My plan was to add protection diodes to the inputs and normal 5V to the switched jacks so then when I plug in external CVs, the pots and joystick would act as attenuators.
  • The indicator lines on CV 3 and CV 4 didn’t extend to where they should have on my version, but I corrected this on the uploaded file.
  • In hindsight, I wish I would have added the bandpass and 2/4 pole and maybe some of the SDE mods to the front or an expanded top panel. Though, this case will likely end up getting a Dual SVF or Digital filter once I have an XT when they are released, so maybe I was reading my own mind.
  • I cut little pieces of the leftover clear sticky rubbery stuff from the standard case feet and put them on the top of the encoder shaft to give it enough clearance to ‘click’ with the small hole but standard length encoder shaft. Works fine!

stimresp "Noisy Little Bugger Shruthi": and pakir wooden case were definitely in mind when I was laying everything out.

Hopefully someone will find this useful! I am happy to have something to finally give back to everyone here :slight_smile:

I am definitely in awe right now! That is a great setup!
I’ll just have to live with using a Korg style Joystick to emulate a CV joystick for now.
I also thought the joy pot sticking out on the side was on purpose. Looks very steampunk. Just needs a darker stain on the wood.

I love your bamboo case and from my personal preference, the type of the 2 knobs used on left would fit best to its all over look, keeping the encoder knob black as it is. The joystick “looking out” looks like it was intended, like a piston motor in aircraft looking out of their coil, great!

As you pointed out that the logo didn´t came out well: I like the “brand-name” Mutable Instruments very much, but the logo is horrible, so much, that if I would get anything with that logo on it, first thing would be to de-engrave it, cut it out, remove it in any way, before even trying anything further or switching it on. Imagine someone would want to sell the greatest synth in the world, but as a logo it has a crucifix or a swastika on it…please, WTF?

@audiohoarder - Yes, once I get a replacement left side panel with a deliberate cutout I plan to stain the whole thing darker. Probably the amber bamboo in Ponoko-land would have been better in that regard.

@MusicCircus - I’m not going to touch the logo topic with a 10 foot boom stand besides to say that I have no issue with it (certainly wouldn’t compare it to religious icons, personally) and I intended to have the logo be fairly prominent but raster or ‘shaded’ engraving doesn’t show up very much on bamboo, just the ‘hard’ vector lines really come through. Also, maybe a nice sticker would be easier than removing a logo from a panel?

I do like the old brown knobs (which I have more of, along with similar, larger gray NOS ones which I might sell some of) but my plan is to try out a matching set of Davies 1910 for all the knobs, especially as I personally have some phobia of encoder knobs having indicators, and Mouser carries the 1910CS:

which has a line and 1910CQ which has no indicator, and all Davies is my current plan for the rest of my bamboo paneled projects (I have a few Euro modules which need finishing that I designed panels for). I also like the feel of phenolic knobs more than most things.

I liked these gray/silver knobs as they fit with the color of the joystick tip and make up for an avionic/spacey style/look, together with a black encoder which fits the black display frame and the bottom part of the joystick. The 1910CS look funny, like a black cylinder hat :slight_smile:
As for the logo, I came up with that comparison with religious icons, because the “bindi” (point on womans forehead) is just that: a religious symbol for Hinduism, even more with the heart on her head upside down, just disgusting (for my perception).

What will you think when you’ll have found all the hidden illuminati references!


@joshuagoran reminds me somehow of the makerbot design

Sounds like an interesting strain of bud… ?

This is just beautiful @joshuagoran !
Thanks for sharing :slight_smile:

Hey joshuagoran that is awesome!

I would tint the bamboo slightly darker to have some more contrast with the Joystick´s metal, but I like it as it is too.

It would be great to see this Shruthi on a video with some joystick action!