I ordered this display from the BOM from Mouser: 763-NHD-0240AZ-FLYBW Now I’m wondering if I got the wrong part. I was expecting Green characters on a black background, like the Ambika photos on the main Ambika page. However the picture on the mouser site shows a greenish background with black characters.
Can anyone clarify which is which? (and point me to a picture if possible).
The Mouser product photo and description are very clear that it’ll be a yellowish/green background ; with black text.
The display shown on the website (and the one that came with the kits) is a custom part I buy from Xiamen Ocular (MOQ of 100).
Thanks @pichenettes. I didn’t trust their photo, so many seem to be wrong!
In that case I think I’ll steer away from green and get a: C-51850NFJ-SLW-ADN from Digikey. Digikey list the background as black, Mouser list it as white! Mouser don’t stock it. As long as its black and white I guess I don’t care.
I believe this is one of the displays used here in a few threads.
I also gather from this thread: http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/3514/does-the-optrex-white-lcd-also-need-a-100-ohm-resistor/p1
that this needs the 100 ohm resistor too.
This Mouser part
was quite popular with the Ambika ‘pioneer’ builders. It looks pretty good. Having said that, mine has developed some annoying ‘stuck pixels’.
Yes, mine has a quirky row on the full right side. :-/
So, it’s not THAT great.
@Mesmrised oh, yours too
Mine was fine initially. Then, I put my Ambika away for a while, and when I turned in on again sometime later, it had this annoying issue. I’ll post a photo later.
Thanks for the input guys. I wonder if the black on white “transflective” version is more reliable (C-51850NFJ-SLW-ADN) than the “transmissive”?
For anyone that discovers this thread in future, these were useful on figuring out the real spec vs a mouser picture!:
I suspect the Kyocera white-on-black is identical to the green version, except for the backlight colour. If that’s the case, there’s no reason for any variation in reliability. Also, don’t rely on the white version being very white. It’s likely to be noticeably blue, and the contrast will not be as great as in the photo of the unit.
That’s exactly right. You can actually change the backlight LEDs, the display itself is the same. I wouldn’t call the white blue though.
The transflective ones are really nice …
hmmm. Decisions, decisions! My main board is now complete, minus a display. I just can’t put this old looking green background LCD on the unit. Just looks too retro!
I think I’ll have to put a digikey order in today for that one @altitude. If it breaks in future, I’ll just have to deal with it!
I’ve used those for 60 builds or so and never had one fail. The REALLY IMPORTANT thing about those is that you ABSOLUTELY MUST use a current limiting resistor, you will blow the backlight LEDs otherwise. (that’s how I know they can be changed)
60!? Wow. Great statistics. 100 ohm on the one in your picture (which appears to be C-51850NFQJ-LW-AAN). Correct?
not 60 ambikas that’s my go to 40x2 display and I have used it a bunch in the 10 years i’ve been putzing around with this stuff
Always check the PN on the Kyocera site
How to change a display for AMBIKA ?!
Make your soldering iron very hot. Than warm up one single contact from the connector.
You had to do it from the backside of the LCD display.
If it is hot enough, you can move each single contacts with a pliers out from the PCB and out from the LCD. ( sometimes the LCD is than butcherd, but not the MOBO !)
Thanks Andre’ - fortunately, I haven’t attached the other one yet - I resisted!
Looks like Kyocera discontinued these Optrex displays. Can’t find the White or Green…So disappointed.
I have a couple green ones to sell.
The Optrex display on my Ambika is slightly faulty, sadly (some stuck pixels). I’m a bit reluctant to attempt a replacement, as it’s still readable, and its a lot of fiddly desoldering, but I may give it a go.
Has anyone used an OLED on an Ambika? I know there were noise issues with OLED displays and certain Shruthi-1 analogue boards, but maybe they’re OK with the Ambika.
Would this display work?
@tubeohm I usually find it’s not the desoldering itself that’s the problem. It’s clearing the solder from the holes, after removing the pin that gets me. Sometimes I just can’t seem to get the stuff out, no matter what I try, and that’s when I end up heating the PCB too much, and burning off the pad…
I have one of those heated solder suckers, highly recommended for display replacements and similar surgery. It also cleans holes of solder in a second.
Another way is to try heating the pad/hole from one side and at the same time use a solder sucker from the other side of the PCB.