I managed to get the coloured knobs on just fine but the white/black versions are a challenge. I’ve only got one on so far, and can’t get it on all the way, and can’t get it off either. Do these need to be reamed a bit first?
Strange, i had no issues with mine.
Must be the odd Canadian climate. There are a few other strange things going on, I’m going to go through the manual a few times and fool with it a bit more, check some solder joints and all that. I’m not getting any sub-octaves - that’s first on my list.
no, not just you. Those metal bushings in the knobs are brutal. It takes a ton of force to get them on, way more than I am comfortable with to put on the shaft of a pot. Oliver recommends some silicone lubricant, look for food grade, it doesn’t stink. He should really consider including a little packet with the kits
I just happen to have some food-grade silicone lube. I just need to figure out how to get the stuck knob off with using a Dremel.
A squirt of wd-40 perhaps? Try prying from below with 2 spatula-type tools on opposing sides.
fcd72 stated in a posting how to get them off…
A few scratches but I got it off. I’m still not getting any sub-octaves but the DCO works, not sure what’s going on. I finally had an excuse to make a removal tool for the stupid knurled nuts.
> I’m still not getting any sub-octaves but the DCO works
The sub-oscillator is clocked by the VCO. Is the VCO working?
D-shaft knobs usually are a pain to get off, sometimes even to get on. I found that the Rogans tend to be even tighter than the rest.
When I built Frank’s Triples I couldn’t get the bloody knob on not even using a hammer, I had to revert to a Sifam one, which did oppose little resistance but still fits snugly to the shaft.
VCO works fine. Everything seems okay, even the DCO, but I don’t get any sub-octave when I turn up the Sub Level. Although, the VCO gets louder.
What do you hear on Pin 1, Pin 11, Pin 12 of IC11?
Olivier, if IC11 is the 4024, that might explain a few things. I looked again at your documentation, and the pins for checking the sub osc are on the 4024. I originally had that IC inserted backwards, so I may have blown that one. I’ll whip up an audio test lead and let you know but that would figure.
@mmarsh, amazing what you can do with an old screwdriver, a Dremel and a fibre cutoff disk.
Yes, the 4024 is the counter generating sub-octaves.
I’ll try and get another one of those. Great sounding little synth 'though. My son wanted something to replace his MS20 mini, which is a bit awkward to take to gigs.
And again…. grab a flat tool (screwdriver) and slide under the knob opposite to the marking. Tilt knob gently ( I SAID GENTLY! ) so you take a bit of the force from the axis by relieving a bit of stress from the spring. You now can pull off the Knob way easier than trying to just pull it.
Try yourselves - i had to remove the Knobs several times on my XT-Proto so i know what I’m talking about
I eventually got it off, in one piece and without wrecking anything for a change. I did not use most of those knobs 'though, ended up using the standard Shruthi knobs. There’s a photo of the more or less finished product in the Census of Assembled Kits thread.
Hey piscione, interested in unloading those knobs? I can take them is you wish, just name the price.