Those metal cases are nice. I have one for my SMR mkI, but for the 4PM that I will someday finish I only have eyes for the frosted white case Frank offers. I want to be able to see those crazy wolf eyes!

Can you still order a frosted white case? I to think those look the best (the eyes!) if i can i think that is the route i would most likely go, and im kicking my self for not finding out about mutable untill i left the city that had tons of hacker spaces (cnc/laser cuters/all the good shit for a 20 dollar month fee). Any how i plan to get some of it started tomorrow i have the day off and i will be picking up some new snips and smaller solder, so as long as i don’t get to drunk at the lake i should have an update.

If you want a frosted case, fcd72 (aka Frank) is your man!

I am sure he could quote one for you (he can even do one-off customs on your request!)

I can even charge you money and not make a case - im on a trip to consultant land atm :wink:

Hey, that’s my business !

@fcd72 don´t say that, you would actually be doing “extra-transparent” cases!


just got .022 diameter siver solder, new snips, and new needle nose plyers. Put two 220 ohm Resistors on the filter board and got them in no problem and he girl friend wants to watch a movie, oh well day off tomorrow.

Just wondering do i have to wear rubber gloves when working with the electrostatic sensitive parts?

I don’t. You’re supposed to wear a ground strap or touch something grounded but I never do and have not fried anything yet.

I’ve been so paranoid lately, touched the PE in the wall outlet every 5 minutes while soldering xD
Can’t go wrong with that.

hey all, i got most of my resistors in but just noticed that i dont have a second 68k resistor, i do have a 68.1k will it effect anything or does it matter(its the top left one between c3 and c4 that is would bee replaced)

Not really. It’s just a 0.15% larger value, some other component tolerance will negate this effect or be a larger contributor to the overall error vs an ideal circuit as drawn.

Here is the populated pcb with just resistors, just wondering if there is a way to tell if i have any cold joints before getting the power supply done and busting out a multimeter.

What’s needed is a bigger picture of the underside. The solder blobs should look like tiny volcanoes around the cut component legs. If it’s a small ball it needs reheating. If it’s a small flat pad with the pin poking up, add more solder to it.

Color: if it looks like shiny metal it’s OK. In case of dull-looking joints these are the cold ones. Reheat all of those.

I can get a picture up soon do not have a camera now, on most of the joints you can tell its all the way threw, some look balled up but threw also so i was thinking maybe i just used to much solder.
Will try and get a picture tonight.

Could be too much solder. Reheat with a clean tip. Some solder will stick to the tip. Remove and clean, repeat until good looking. Stressed? Use a solder sucker and add a smaller amount of fresh tin.

Sometimes the balled up ones stick to the component leg while having poor to none contact with the PCB pad.

So if im worried you think i should just heat the ball up suck it off and start over?

Heat it, if it floats out into a nice shape you’re done. Else, start over just to be safe.

I hit some blobs with the iron and i see what you mean they kinda like burst but didnt pop and just sunk into the board. Thanks for all the help more pictures to come (getting camera today i think).