i’m new here ,and i would to give my best salutation to you and the community of crazy passionate
i build now my third Shrut1 with the new kit “4 pole” i have bought the reichelt components
and i have a big mistake ,issue … :
nothing led on the filter board work when i put the current (now after soldering ,i have broken the cms led thin track)
and the eyes of the crazy wolves doesn’t run …
on the main board ,the screen is static ,i just see a lot of pixel and
the led 1 3 5 7 are bright .
i have tested some current on filter board and the value are correct
i don’t know the real process for the main board
if you want to desolder this kind of ic, you better consider it screwed and simply cut out the legs, so you only have to desolder the legs - way easier and not much damageful for the circuit board.
Otherwise, a lot of flux and solder wick always helps.
I can highly recommend the Hakko 808 for desoldering purposes. It’s a bit expensive, but in the long run maybe not… Removed the lcd in a few minutes once with it.
sorry but i can’t cut the leg ,the space it’s realy enough,i don’t have a special tool for this operation ,i need to desoldering lot of things ,with the same risk of destruct the cooper track (the potentiometer on each was really well soldering)
i have check all point of soldering ,make in 5 hour the two boards on in the end my head it’s in the space for install the ic …,
now i need to found the right IC for changing ,and repair the massacre
and it’s good idea this special desoldering tool same as the makko 808 ,really expansive but very usefull i have see some video ,when i have budget i try to found one but for the moment i wait my first desoldering tool
That could be accomplished now that I think about it… it just requires m/f headers like in the sandwich. It would make the LCD sit up higher too which is not necessarily bad? Actually, it would be high on the connector end and angle down towards the knobs. That would make it easier to see…
Well, I think the OLED life can be expanded by blanking it when it’s not really being used. So if you’re playing back previously sequenced music and don’t need to see the screen then perhaps a switch can be fitted to blank it somehow?
Or some magic software feature to blank it with a key combination.